What is "Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract" and what is its utility?

Rubus Fruticosus is the scientific name for the wild blackberry, also known as bramble. It is a thorny shrub belonging to the Rosaceae family and native to the temperate countries of Europe. Being a wild variety, the bramble grows in forests and fallow lands. The plant is exploited in the field of phytotherapy, skincare, and cooking for its leaves and berries. Indeed, the bramble produces a red-colored fruit, commonly known as the wild blackberry. These fruits are the source of blackberry extract, used in skincare under the INCI name Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract. The blackberry extract is obtained by macerating the fruits in a solution based on alcohol, water, and vegetable glycerin. This technique allows the extraction of molecules present in the fruit, namely: polyphenols such as anthocyanins, tannins, fruit acids, and vitamin C.

Rich in active ingredients, blackberry extract is as beneficial for health as it is for the skin.

• It combats premature skin aging.

  The anti-aging action of blackberry extract comes from its content of polyphenols and vitamin C. These molecules are antioxidants that stimulate collagen synthesis and combat oxidative stress. As a reminder, collagen is one of the constituent proteins of the dermis, the deep layer of the skin, which ensures its elasticity. Maximizing collagen production therefore helps to tone the skin and reduce wrinkles.

  Furthermore, blackberry extract has shown a strong inhibitory action against monoamine oxidase B (MAO-B). The inhibitory concentration, IC50, is between 4 and 7 mg/mL. Thus, blackberries and their antioxidant components, particularly phenolic compounds, positively contribute to skin health by inhibiting oxidative damage related to the formation of species such as monoamine oxidase B (MAO-B).

• It unclogs the pores.

  The acids found in blackberry extract serve as exfoliating agents. By unclogging the pores, they help remove dead skin cells and impurities. Indeed, these can be the cause of blackheads, acne, etc. Once exfoliated, the skin regains its radiance. Furthermore, exfoliation promotes the process of cellular renewal.

• It soothes sensitive skin.

  The extract of blackberries is also known for its bactericidal properties. It is thus used to treat skin inflammations. On sensitive skin, it can therefore soothe redness and tightness.

The blackberry extract also has moisturizing properties and takes care of your dry hair.

The Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract is used in skincare as a exfoliating and regenerating active ingredient. It is primarily found in gel scrubs and creams intended for mature skin. It is also found in certain body care products (scrubs, body lotions, hand and foot creams, shower gels, solid soaps, bath oils, shower creams) and also in hair care products (shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, after-shampoos).

We have developed a peeling mask with organic red fruit acids. This treatment contains acids from blackberries, blackcurrants, and raspberries, as well as cranberry powder to exfoliate the skin. It helps to remove dead cells to brighten the complexion and promote skin renewal.

• Muhammad Zia-Ul-Haq & al., Rubus Fruticosus L.: Constituents, Biological Activities and Health Related Uses, Molecules, (2014).

• Hafiza Uroosa Rasheed & al., Blackberry: A review on its composition and chemistry, uses and bioavailability and potential health benefits, International Journal of Chemical and Biochemical Sciences, (2017).