Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract is the I.N.C.I. name used to refer to theraspberry plant extract. This fruit acid is an enzymatic exfoliant rich in Vitamin C. It removes dead cells from the skin's surface for an immediate radiance boost.
What is "Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract" and what is its utility?
A few words on the red raspberry.
The Rubus idaeus is the scientific name for the red raspberry bush. This shrub, belonging to the Rosaceae family, is native to Europe and Asia (from Turkey to Siberia, passing through China and Japan). It thrives in regions with a cold climate. The species name of the raspberry, "Idaeus", comes from its discovery on Mount Ida near Troy in northern Turkey, a setting of Greek mythology. According to legend, the fruit gets its red color from the blood of Ida, the daughter of the king of Crete and the nurse of Zeus. In an attempt to soothe Zeus, she supposedly picked raspberries, which were originally white in color, and scratched her breast, which bled and stained the fruits red.
Today, the raspberry is a fruit widely used in cooking. In skin and hair care, it can be incorporated into formulas in the form of vegetable oil (Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil), powder (Rubus Idaeus Seed Powder) and/or aromatic extract (Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract).
How is the plant extract of raspberry obtained?
Raspberry extract is derived from the soaking of the fruit in a circulating mixture of bioglycerin-water. From an organoleptic perspective, the vegetable extract of raspberry is a reddish to brown liquid with a fruity scent. It is soluble in water and alcohol but insoluble in any lipophilic environment. Its incorporation rate in a cosmetic formula is not regulated, but it is recommended by the main suppliers of this extract at a concentration between 0.3 and 10%.
What are the benefits of Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract?
Thanks to its antioxidant action, raspberry extract is used to slow down the appearance of aging signs induced by oxidative stress. Indeed, the compounds it contains such as polyphenols and vitamin E act at the internal structure of the skin. They notably help to counteract the effects of oxidation reactions, which are responsible for the deterioration of the body's constituents like collagen and elastin. As a reminder, these fibrous proteins present in the dermis are responsible for the skin's tone and elasticity.
The plant extract of raspberry also exerts this antioxidant action when applied to hair. It thus protects the hair from external aggressions (pollution, sun, cigarette smoke...) that generate an overproduction of free radicals. Oxidative stress is a factor linked to the deterioration of hair fibers, the appearance of white hair, or even hair loss. The raspberry extract and the molecules it contains neutralize these free radicals to prevent them from causing damage and maintain good hair quality for as long as possible.
Beyond its antioxidant activity, raspberry extract also has exfoliating and purifying properties. It removes dead cells from the skin's surface for an immediate glow. It reveals smoother skin and a refined skin texture.
Furthermore, the presence of minerals (potassium) acts on inflammations, helping to soothe redness and irritations.
In which Typology skincare product can one find raspberry plant extract?
Typology has developed a peeling mask that is certified organic and contains red fruit acids. This treatment combines several exfoliating active ingredients such as raspberry, blackberry, and blackcurrant acids, along with cranberry powder and PHA. By unclogging the pores, it promotes cell renewal and brightens the complexion.
Pei-Wen Wang & al., Red Raspberry Extract Protects the Skin against UVB-Induced Damage with Antioxidative and Anti-inflammatory Properties, Oxid Med Cell Longev. (2019).