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What should you know about Vitamin B12?

First isolated in 1948 by Karl FOLKERS and his team, vitamin B12 is an essential molecule for the body. It is also used in the cosmetic industry and has several benefits for the skin. What are the properties of vitamin B12? Are there any particular precautions for its topical application? Discover all the key information about this active ingredient here.

The vitamin B12, in brief.

Vitamin B12, or cobalamin, is one of the eight B vitamins. It exists in several forms: cyanocobalamin, hydroxocobalamin, adenosylcobalamin, and methylcobalamin, with the first two being its stable forms. It is the cyanocobalamin that is found in cosmetics. Vitamin B12 has a chemical structure similar to heme, the cofactor involved in the transport of oxygen by the blood. Instead of iron at the central atom, cobalamin has a cobalt atom, hence its name. This complex chemical structure is the origin of one of its cosmetic peculiarities: Vitamin B12 gives skincare products a rosy tint.

This vitamin also fulfills several roles within the body: production of red blood cells, protection of the myelin sheath, the structure around nerves optimizing their function, regulation of DNA and fatty acid synthesis... However, it is not synthesized in the human body, hence the need for a external intake through diet to avoid deficiencies and the risks that result from them (anemia, pigment disorders, nerve damage...). Vitamin B12 is almost exclusively found in animal products. For vegetarians and those with insufficient intake, additional supplementation may be necessary.

La structure de la vitamine B12
Source: BAUMGARTNER M. & al. Vitamin B12, folate, and the methionine remethylation cycle—biochemistry, pathways, and regulation. Journal of inherited metabolic disease (2018).

How is vitamin B12 obtained?

The vitamin B12 used in cosmetics is most often produced by fermentation. This can be carried out by two alternative methods: aerobic, in bacteria, or anaerobic, in archaea. Most often, the aerobic method is preferred, due to cost and technical considerations. The bacterial strains commonly used to produce vitamin B12 are Bacillus megaterium, Pseudomonas denitrificans and Propionibacterium freudenreichii.

Given that cobalamin is composed of a cobalt atom, it is crucial to add it to the culture medium, along with a source of carbon, nitrogen, and growth factors. During the fermentation process, vitamin B12 is produced within the bacteria. Once the synthesis is completed, after approximately 48 to 72 hours, the bacteria are harvested and then lysed to recover the vitamin B12, meaning their membrane is destroyed.

The cosmetic properties of vitamin B12.

In addition to its biological functions, the vitamin B12 is beneficial for the skin and hair. It is therefore found in various cosmetic products under its INCI name "Cyanocobalamin".

  • Vitamin B12 is a good anti-inflammatory.

    Found in both cosmetic products and soothing dermatological ointments, Vitamin B12 is primarily known for its calming action. Several studies conducted with patients suffering from eczema or psoriasis have indeed demonstrated its effectiveness. Vitamin B12 works by inhibiting the release of certain pro-inflammatory cytokines, molecules involved in painful responses. It also limits the synthesis of nitric oxide (NO), a vasodilator.

  • Vitamin B12 possesses antioxidant properties.

    Thanks to the numerous double bonds present in its chemical structure, Vitamin B12 can stabilize free radicals by providing them with an electron. In doing so, it combats the harmful effects of oxidative stress and protects cellular organelles and DNA. Oxidative stress is indeed the cause of premature skin aging and can also cause pigmentation disorders. Therefore, Vitamin B12 has photoprotective potential and can help prevent skin sagging and wrinkles.

  • Vitamin B12 could potentially support wound healing.

    Some studies in vitro suggest that the use of vitamin B12 may have a role in the process of skin regeneration. By stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts, this molecule could enhance the production of collagen and elastin, proteins essential for tissue healing. Vitamin B12 could also promote angiogenesis, which corresponds to the formation of new blood vessels. It would be interesting if studies in vivo could confirm these results and the healing potential of vitamin B12.

  • Vitamin B12 could help to limit hair loss.

    The vitamin B12 could also be beneficial for hair and scalp, and may help reduce hair loss. While hair loss is a natural phenomenon, it can be bothersome, especially for those seeking to grow long hair. Studies on human follicles have shown that vitamin B12 could stimulate the signaling pathway of ß-catenin, a molecule that facilitates the transition between the hair loss phase and the growth phase. However, these initial findings still need to be confirmed through clinical trials before we can assert that the vitamin B12 has an effect on hair loss.

Are there precautions to take related to the use of vitamin B12?

Often used on skin prone to atopic or psoriatic tendencies and suitable for pregnant women, the vitamin B12 is a safe and gentle active ingredient for the skin. However, as always in cosmetics, there is no such thing as zero risk and a few marginal and benign cases of skin irritation following the use of vitamin B12 have been reported. These reactions can be explained by the sensitivity to cobalt that some people have. Indeed, cobalt can be allergenic and its contact can cause redness and itching. Therefore, if you have a cobalt allergy, it is preferable to avoid cosmetics containing vitamin B12.

Good Practice : Before using a new product, we advise you to test it on the inside of your elbow or your wrist.

Note : Only the precautions related to the topical use of vitamin B12 are mentioned here, not its oral intake.

Our skincare treatment enriched with vitamin B12.

The soothing and restorative properties of Vitamin B12 can be found in our after-sun serum. Designed for skin weakened by UV ray exposure, this treatment combats dehydration and helps to replenish the hydrolipidic film. It contains 97% naturally derived ingredients and has a thermoregulating texture that provides immediate soothing effects to the skin. In addition to Vitamin B12, this serum contains panthenol, which is calming and hydrating, and carob pulp extract, whose richness in inositol promotes the development of a more intense and long-lasting tan.

Sources

  • DAVLUY S. & al. A Review of Vitamin B12 in Dermatology. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology (2015).

  • ZHANG D. & al. Microbial production of vitamin B12: a review and future perspectives. Microbial Cell Factories (2017).

  • BAUMGARTNER M. & others. Vitamin B12, Folate, and the Methionine Remethylation Cycle—Biochemistry, Pathways, and Regulation. Journal of Inherited Metabolic Disease (2018).

  • VAN DEN HEUVEL E. & al. Vitamin B12 in Relation to Oxidative Stress: A Systematic Review. Nutrients (2019).

  • SHEKARCHI B. & al. Vitamin B12-loaded polycaprolactone/gelatin nanofibrous scaffold as potential wound care material. Biomedical Engineering Letters (2020).

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