Which probiotic skincare products should you choose based on your skin type?

An oily skin is characterized by the excessive presence of sebum. This lipid film secreted by the sebaceous glands primarily serves to protect the skin. However, when it is produced in excess, the skin tends to shine and the obstruction of pores can lead to imperfections. Moreover, people with oily skin tend to have an irregular skin texture and visible, dilated pores. To remedy these inconveniences, it is good to adopt a skincare routine that includes active ingredients with sebum-regulating, mattifying, and astringent powers.

Several research studies have been conducted on the action of probiotics on the skin and their incorporation into cosmetic products. In terms of oily skin, several strains have been identified for their sebum-regulating potential and their ability to balance the skin flora. Notably, the Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium stand out and are among the most commonly used probiotics. Moreover, the former also possess antibacterial properties against Cutibacterium acnes, the bacteria responsible for acne, a skin condition particularly affecting oily skin. Finally, probiotics derived from Saccharomyces, a type of fungus, can also be incorporated into cosmetics for oily skin due to their anti-inflammatory and soothing actions, contributing to the overall improvement of inflammatory lesions.

Dry skin is the result of a lack of essential lipids in the epidermis, which can lead to feelings of tightness, flaking, and a dull appearance. Moreover, unlike oily skin, dry skin tends to produce little sebum, which can compromise its ability to retain moisture and maintain a healthy skin barrier. Relatively thin, dry skin is sensitive to temperature changes and tends to flake, meaning dead skin cells are regularly found on its surface. To care for it, we recommend adopting a moisturizing and nourishing skincare routine with products rich in restorative and protective active ingredients.

The addition of probiotics in certain cosmetics intended for dry skin can be beneficial as several strains of microorganisms have demonstrated that they possess moisturizing properties as well as the ability to strengthen the skin barrier. The most commonly used probiotics in this case are the Leuconostocaceae and the Vitreoscilla. These contribute to the balance of the skin's microbiota while promoting good skin hydration, thus helping dry skin regain its natural glow and comfort.

Sometimes difficult to manage, combination skin is oily only in the T-zone but is dry on the cheeks and temples. They are often prone to blackheads and enlarged pores in the middle part of the face. Conversely, the cheeks and temples are areas where sebum production is reduced, which can lead to tightness and redness.

Probiotics can offer a rebalancing solution for combination skin, helping to regulate sebum production in oily areas while providing adequate hydration for dry areas. Probiotic strains such as Lactobacillus can help restore the balance of skin flora in oily areas, thus reducing excessive shine. At the same time, these probiotics are not drying and can help strengthen the skin barrier, which minimizes flaking and discomfort. Probiotics derived from certain fungi like Saccharomyces can also be beneficial for soothing combination skin while enhancing its radiance.

Smooth, soft, neither dry nor oily... Normal skin types exhibit few imperfections and are favored. They produce enough sebum to stay hydrated without showing areas of shine or excessive pore dilation. Moreover, the skin barrier of normal skin types is functional and they are naturally protected from external factors. However, this does not mean they do not require care.

The topical application of probiotics can help to maintain the natural balance of normal skin. In addition to the previously mentioned probiotic strains, other bacteria can be beneficial for normal skin such as Streptococcus. These probiotics possess moisturizing and soothing properties, contributing to the good health of normal skin and helping to prevent skin problems.

Probiotics thus prove to be the allies of the skin microbiota, offering various benefits for oily, dry, combination, and normal skin types.

• GUENICHE A. & al. Probiotics for Skin Benefits. Nutritional Cosmetics: Beauty from Within (2009).

• YU J. & al. Application and mechanism of probiotics in skincare: A review. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2022).

• XU Z. & al. Applications of Probiotic Constituents in Cosmetics. Molecules (2023).