Sulfates are surfactants widely found in shampoos for their foaming and detergent properties. The foam often serves as a guarantee of effectiveness and gives the impression of deeply cleansing the hair. However, their potential for irritation is increasingly being highlighted, as is their ecological impact. For a healthy scalp and hair, it is advisable to avoid them and opt for a shampoo devoid of such substances.
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Why choose a sulfate-free shampoo?
Summary
- Everything you need to know about sulfates
- What is the controversy surrounding sulfates?
- What are the benefits of using a sulfate-free shampoo?
- Sources
Published October 20, 2021,
updated on February 22, 2024,
by
Maylis, Chemical Engineer
—
5 min read
Everything you need to know about sulfates.
Sulfates are synthetic ingredients derived from a chemical reaction between petrochemical-based sulfuric acid and fatty acids of plant origin (coconut oil or palm oil). These surfactants are widely present in cleansing care products, particularly in shampoos, conditioners, shower gels, and liquid soaps due to their excellent detergent properties. Moreover, they are inexpensive and produce a significant amount of foam upon contact with water, often seen as a sign of a shampoo's effectiveness by users. They can be found under the following names: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES), Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (ALS), etc... Present in large quantities, sulfates are generally among the top five ingredients in a shampoo's I.N.C.I. list.
What is the controversy surrounding sulfates?
These substances are controversial today for two main reasons:
Their irritant potential: The detergent power of sulfates is potent and can cause irritations to the scalp. They damage hair fibers and sometimes trigger allergic reactions. Moreover, they make the hair brittle and split-ended. They also promote a difference in texture between the root (oily) and the ends (dry). Additionally, these harmful effects are usually combined with those caused by the presence of silicone in these types of treatments. In the long run, sulfates weaken the scalp by diminishing the natural keratin of the hair. They are now implicated as endocrine disruptors.
Their ecological impact: Sulfates are also identified as pollutants for the environment, animals, aquatic habitats, and plants. REACH (European regulation for securing the manufacture and use of chemical substances) classifies SLS and SLES as ecotoxic substances.
What are the benefits of using a sulfate-free shampoo?
A sulfate-free shampoo lathers less than a traditional shampoo containing such ingredients. Psychologically, this may give the impression that its cleansing action is less effective. However, this is completely untrue. Nevertheless, it takes a period of adjustment for your hair to get used to a natural shampoo. During the first few days of use, you may find your hair to be coarser, less shiny. Once this phase is over, the main benefit of a sulfate-free shampoo will be the rebalancing of your scalp. Such a treatment cleanses the hair without damaging it, which offers the opportunity to optimize sebum production. With frequent use, sulfate-free shampoo promotes hair regrowth and prevents the appearance of split ends.
Beyond the pursuit of healthy and shiny hair, the use of a sulfate-free shampoo is recommended in certain situations. After a Brazilian blowout, it is crucial to use a gentle hair care product, free of sulfates and silicones. This helps to preserve the protective layer of keratin applied to the hair surface. It is also essential to resort to this type of care if you have a sensitive scalp and if you want to prevent hair fragility. Discover our range of shampoos formulated without sulfates or silicones.
Sources:
BERGFELD W.F. The side effects of hair products on the scalp and hair. Hair Research. (1981).
WEYLAND & al. The Allergens in cosmetics. Archives of Dermatology. (1988).
NATER J.P. & al. Unwanted Effects of Cosmetics and Drugs Used in Dermatology. Elsevier (1994).
ZIANE S. & al. How I treat dandruff using a shampoo with a sulfate-free tensio-active. Revue Médical de Liège (2016).
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