Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3 for hair: what are its effects?

Acetyl tetrapeptide-3 is a biomimetic peptide composed of four amino acids. These are molecules carrying a carboxyl group as well as an amine group which, when combined in a specific order, form proteins or peptides. Made up of short chains of amino acids, a peptide does not contain more than about twenty amino acids, unlike a protein. They are increasingly used in cosmetics due to their beneficial properties for the skin and hair.

Indeed, peptides play essential roles by acting as messengers within the body. They are capable ofsending signals to cells to stimulate or regulate various biological processes. In cosmetics, most peptides used are chosen for their ability to target specific issues, such as cellular regeneration, the production of collagen and elastin by fibroblasts, the regulation of skin hydration, hair growth, and so on.

Acetyl tetrapeptide-3 is particularly used in the hair care field to prevent hair loss. Mechanistically, this peptide works by increasing the synthesis of type III collagen and laminin, proteins of the extracellular matrix (ECM), which helps to ensure a better anchoring to the hair. It's worth noting that the extracellular matrix is composed of a collection of macromolecules such as collagen, elastin, proteoglycans, and structural glycoproteins, and it is located between the cells of the connective tissue. The ECM provides support and contributes to the structuring of cells and tissues.

By stimulating the synthesis of ECM proteins, acetyl tetrapeptide-3 helps toincrease the size of hair follicles, the small epidermal pockets located at the base of hair fibers. Several studies have indeed shown that their size is correlated with the synthesis of ECM compounds. Now, when hair follicles are larger, they provide better hair anchorage and reduce the risk of hair loss.

Several studies have explored the benefits of acetyl tetrapeptide-3 in cases ofalopecia. One such study notably demonstrated that thecombination of this peptide with red clover extract significantly reduced hair loss. In this study, thirty volunteers suffering from alopecia were recruited and applied a daily serum containing acetyl tetrapeptide-3 and red clover extract to their scalp for four months. At the end of this period, the ratio of hairs in the anagen phase, or growth phase, to the number of hairs in the telogen phase, or shedding phase, had increased by 46%.

Another study also demonstrated that the topical application of a blend of acetyl tetrapeptide-3, biochanin A, and ginseng extract had a comparable efficacy, if not slightly superior to that of minoxidil. Minoxidil is a widely used medicinal substance for alopecia. It works by stimulating hair growth and slowing down hair loss but sometimes causes irritations, unlike the acetyl tetrapeptide-3 , which is a very gentle active ingredient. Therefore, it seems that this peptide is well on its way to becoming a competitive alternative to minoxidil and a real means of combating hair loss.