Arbutin acid formulations.

Arbutin acid is a molecule naturally present in certain plants, such as bell heather, cranberry or blueberry. However, it’sbearberryleaves that the maximum amount can be extracted from. This substance is particularly effective in blurring pigment spots on the surface of the skin.

Arbutin acid is often referred to asnatural hydroquinonebecause of itspigment-regulating character. When applied to the skin, its remarkable effectiveness is due toits perfect affinity with the active site of tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in the formation of melanin. As such, this competitive inhibition of the active site of the enzyme blocks its activity and consequently the synthesis of melanin. After about six weeks of using an arbutin acid treatment, pigment spots fade and the complexion regains its uniformity.

Additionally, alpha-arbutinhas a strongantioxidant activity. It therefore inhibits the formation of free radicals, extremely reactive oxygen-derived species which degrade healthy skin cells and proteins, accelerating skin aging.

There are different formulations that contain alpha arbutin and are now distributed on the cosmetics market. This active ingredient can be found increams, lotions, toners, aqueous serums or night masks.

In general, the claims associated with products containing this active ingredient relate to the lightening of the complexion, the reduction of blemishes such as acne marks/sun spots/pregnancy mask, or even the prevention of the appearance of wrinkles due to repeated attacks by free radicals. To be effective on the skin, arbutin acid must be concentrated to at least 0.2% in a cosmetic formula. In general, serums are the formulations which have a higher concentration of an active ingredient and therefore of alpha arbutin.

Note: When applied to the skin in high concentrations, arbutin acid may cause slight irritationet/ or redness. According to a report published in 2015, the CSSC (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) considers the use of alpha arbutin in cosmetic products to be safe for consumers at a concentration of up to2%in face creams and up to0.5%in body milks.