Argireline: how to use it?

The argireline, known by its INCI designation "Acetyl Hexapeptide-8", is an increasingly used peptide for its smoothing effect on expression wrinkles. Its mechanism involves modulating acetylcholine release at nerve terminals, which reduces contractions of the facial muscles responsible for wrinkles. By reducing these repetitive contractions, argireline helps smooth existing wrinkles and prevent new ones, especially around the eyes and the mouth, which are highly expressive areas. Some studies also suggest a beneficial effect of argireline on fibroblast activity, the cells synthesizing the collagen and the elastin, essential molecules for skin suppleness and elasticity, but these studies are still in the preliminary stages.

In addition to its anti-wrinkle action, argireline could also contribute indirectly to skin hydration. By relaxing fibroblasts and limiting extracellular matrix contraction, it would enhance water retention in the dermis and epidermis, thereby contributing to a plumping effect. However, these potential hydrating properties of argireline remain poorly studied and warrant further in-depth investigation.

The argireline is very often compared to botox, due to their similar mechanism of action: both target the neuromuscular signaling responsible for expression wrinkles. The botox is injected directly into the muscle to block the release of acetylcholine, whereas argireline partially mimics this effect by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitters via an interference with the SNARE complex, which is involved in neurotransmitter release.

Unlike botox, argireline is formulated for topical application.

However, a few injection attempts have been reported, although these are neither a standard practice nor a technique supported by the scientific literature. One notable case describes a severe infection with Mycobacterium abscessus occurring after the injection of argireline. The patient presented with erythema, nodules, and an abscess that required prolonged antibiotic treatment and left scars and a hyperpigmentation as residual. That said, this type of complication is more related to the invasive nature of the procedure and the associated risk of contamination than to the peptide itself.

Although it is argireline primarily used in topical applications, its usage instructions vary depending on the type of product in which it is incorporated. It is primarily found in aqueous serums—lightweight, fast-absorbing formulas that enable targeted application to areas prone to expression lines, such as crow’s feet, forehead wrinkles, or glabellar lines. Argireline is also present in facial creams, which include moisturizing, plumping, and/or tightening actives to offer a more comprehensive effect. Finally, it is common in treatments for the eye contour, an area where repeated muscle contractions and the thinness of the skin promote the rapid appearance of dynamic wrinkles.

Argireline can theoretically be applied morning and evening, since it is not a photosensitizing ingredient. It can be incorporated daily into a skincare routine, whether for a preventive action on expression lines or to diminish the appearance of those already established. The serums are generally applied after cleansing, on dry or slightly damp skin, before moisturizer. Creams and eye contour care products containing argireline can, in turn, be used as the final step of the skincare routine in the evening, or under a sunscreen in the morning.

Even though argireline is a well-tolerated active ingredient overall, it is important to follow suppliers’ instructions. The combinations of actives and intended outcomes vary from one product to another, which can affect application frequency or usage precautions.

• WANG Y. & al. The anti-wrinkle efficacy of argireline. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy (2013).

• ROTSZTEJN H. & al. The peptide argireline – The importance of local application on the skin, in the light of current knowledge. Letters in Drug Design & Discovery (2017).

• HU X.-P. & al. Mycobacterium abscessus infection after facial injection of argireline: A case report. World Journal of Clinical Cases (2021).