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Dark Circles: The effectiveness of Immortelle essential oil on the eye contour.

Often associated with a lack of sleep, dark circles give a tired appearance to those who have them. Even though they are not at all dangerous, they constitute a major aesthetic concern. In search of natural solutions, some individuals turn to immortelle essential oil. What is its effectiveness on dark circles? Discover more information below.

Summary
Published August 12, 2024, updated on August 12, 2024, by Pauline, Head of Scientific Communication — 5 min read

What are the effects of immortelle essential oil against dark circles?

Most often, dark circles are characterized by a slightly bluish or brownish discoloration of the skin located at the level of the lower eyelid. They are usually accompanied by swelling of the eyelid, which weighs down the gaze and gives a sad and tired appearance. Depending on their type, the dark circles result from different factors. Thus, vascular dark circles form due to a slowdown in blood and lymphatic circulation, pigmented dark circles are due to a high concentration of melanin in the skin around the eyes, and hollow dark circles are the consequence of the progressive decrease of subcutaneous fatty tissue located under the eyes. Also called essential oil of everlasting helichrysum, does the essential oil of immortelle have an effect on the different types of dark circles?

Can Immortelle essential oil alleviate bluish dark circles?

According to certain scientific studies, Italian helichrysum essential oil appears to stimulate microcirculation of the blood, a property that is beneficial in combating the stagnation of blood pigments that lead to the formation of vascular dark circles. It seems that this ingredient works by inhibiting the synthesis of nitric oxide (NO), which is produced under the influence of the enzyme nitric oxide synthase (NOS). However, nitric oxide promotes vasodilation, that is, the widening of blood vessels. As a result, blood pressure and blood flow decrease, which contributes to the stagnation of fluids.

According to a study in vitro, it appears that the addition of 250 μg/mL of immortelle essential oil significantly reduces the nitric oxide content in BV-2 cells. By inhibiting the synthesis of nitric oxide, this essential oil could potentially help to fade vascular dark circles. However, without clinical trials, it is impossible to definitively confirm this.

Does immortelle essential oil have an effect on brown under-eye circles?

Commonly found in individuals with darker skin tones, brown under-eye circles are often the result of genetics. In order to address this type of under-eye circles, it is generally recommended to turn to active ingredients with anti-melanin properties, such as niacinamide or ferulic acid. As for the essential oil of immortelle, there is currently no evidence of its effectiveness in combating brown under-eye circles, nor that it might have a potential inhibitory effect on melanogenesis. Therefore, at this time, it is not possible to say that Italian helichrysum essential oil can reduce pigmented under-eye circles.

Essential oil of immortelle to fade hollow under-eye circles?

Hollow under-eye circles are a specific type of under-eye circles that do not alter the coloration of the eye contour. They often develop gradually over time. Indeed, as we age, the fatty pockets of the face, located between the skin and the orbital bone, empty out and the skin sags. Apart from resorting to injections, it is almost impossible to combat hollow under-eye circles. Faced with this skin issue, cosmetics have little effect, and immortelle essential oil is no exception.

Nevertheless, it is possible that the regular use of Italian helichrysum essential oil may help to maintain skin structures a bit longer, thereby somewhat preventing hollow dark circles. Indeed, according to some studies in vitro, this botanical extract could inhibit the activities of collagenase and elastase, enzymes respectively responsible for the degradation of collagen and elastin. As a reminder, these are protein fibers in the dermis that ensure the flexibility, elasticity, and resistance of skin tissues, which helps to maintain the overall structure of the skin. Thus, it can be hypothesized that helichrysum essential oil could slow down the onset of hollow dark circles, although clinical studies are necessary to prove this.

The key takeaway:

Scientific evidence regarding the effectiveness of immortelle essential oil in reducing dark circles remains limited to date. While it is plausible that this botanical extract may help fade vascular dark circles and prevent structural dark circles, there is no indication that it has an effect on pigmented dark circles.

Sources

  • APPENDINO G. & al. Helichrysum italicum: The dormant titan of Mediterranean herbal medicine. Herbalgram (2015).

  • ASCRIZZI R. & al. In Vitro Anticollagenase and Antielastase Activities of Essential Oil of Helichrysum italicum subsp. italicum (Roth) G. Don. Journal of Medicinal Food (2019).

  • OBERMAYER B. & al. Skin and Vascular Fitness. SOFW Journal - Home and Personal Care Ingredients & Formulations (2023).

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