Brown or pigmented under-eye circles: which solutions?

The pigmented under-eye circles, or brown, are a particular type of under-eye circles predominantly found in individuals with medium to dark skin tones. They result from a natural overproduction of melanin at the eye contour. The resulting hyperpigmentation often has a genetic basis, although it can be exacerbated by prolonged sun exposure that triggers the process of melanogenesis. While treating brown under-eye circles is challenging, certain methods can nonetheless help brighten the eye area.

Although this is challenging, several techniques can be used to treat brown under-eye circles.

The use of depigmenting cosmetic active ingredients.

Certain active ingredients can help counteract the overproduction of melanin associated with brown under-eye circles, thereby diminishing their appearance. This is particularly true of vitamin C and resorcinol derivatives. Best known for its antioxidant properties, vitamin C is also able to inhibit tyrosinase activity, the enzyme responsible for converting tyrosine into melanin. This action reduces melanin levels in the epidermis and could help lighten the periorbital area, although clinical studies would be required to confirm this.

Regarding resorcinol, and more specifically 4-hexylresorcinol (4-HR), its antimelanogenic effect has been demonstrated in a recent double-blind clinical trial in which volunteers received either a 3% niacinamide formulation or a 3% niacinamide formulation combined with 0.4% 4-HR. After applying one or the other for 12 weeks, those using the 4-HR–containing product showed a significantly greater improvement in pigmentation and skin tone uniformity. It can be assumed that this effect may also translate to the eye‐contour area.

Chemical peel.

Exfoliating agents, such as glycolic or lactic acid, can also help reduce brown under-eye circles. Indeed, by eroding the stratum corneum, they contribute to removing excess melanin and reducing hyperpigmentation. A study involving 15 participants demonstrated the beneficial effects of a weekly application of a gel containing 3.75% trichloroacetic acid and 15% lactic acid on periorbital hyperpigmentation. After four weeks, seven patients showed excellent improvement, another seven had good results, and the last participant showed an average reduction in the visibility of dark circles.

The area of the eye contour is very delicate, so it is not recommended to apply a peel that has not been specifically formulated for this use. The results observed in the study were obtained under strict dermatological supervision.

The laser.

Useful in cases of vascular dark circles, the laser can also address pigmented dark circles. However, it uses a different device for brown circles: the fractional laser. This system emits at a specific wavelength—typically between 1064 and 1550 nm—enabling it to target melanin. When the laser light penetrates the skin, it is absorbed by melanocytes. These melanin‐containing cells are then fragmented and destroyed, thereby reducing brown pigmentation around the eyes. Several studies have shown that this technique can mitigate periorbital hyperpigmentation.

A study specifically evaluated the efficacy of a 755 nm alexandrite laser on infraorbital hyperpigmentation in 10 adults. All participants began with a severity score of 3 on a standardized scale ranging from 1 to 4. They underwent three laser sessions spaced three weeks apart. Results showed a significant improvement in pigmentation by day 42 (mean score reduced to 2). However, the treatment response varied among participants, with some exhibiting only very partial improvement.

Good to know : You can also use makeup to conceal brown under-eye circles. To that end, we recommend our tinted concealer, which provides both high coverage and skin care benefits thanks to its generous concentrations of caffeine, cornflower hydrosol, and niacinamide.

Note : In-office chemical peels and laser treatments are aesthetic medicine procedures; therefore, it is important to be well informed before undergoing them and to consult a healthcare professional to verify their appropriateness and to rule out any contraindications.

• ITOH M. & al. Effects of vitamin C on dark circles of the lower eyelids: quantitative evaluation using image analysis and echogram. Skin Research and Technology (2009).

• HASSAN A. & al. Treatment of periorbital dark circles: Comparative study of chemical peeling with a combination of trichloroacetic acid and lactic acid versus carboxytherapy. Journal of Surgical Dermatology (2016).

• GOLDMAN M. & al. Prospective studies of the efficacy and safety of the picosecond 755, 1,064, and 532 nm lasers for the treatment of infraorbital dark circles. Lasers in Surgery and Medicine (2017).

• DAMODARAN A. & al. Superior even skin tone and anti-ageing benefit of a combination of 4-hexylresorcinol and niacinamide. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2022).

• NAIR N. & al. Skin pigmentation and cosmetic considerations for even skin tone. Pigmentation Disorders (2022).