Bluish or vascular under-eye circles: what solutions?

Characterized by a bluish to purplish pigmentation, the vascular dark circles are the result of a slowed blood microcirculation. Indeed, when the capillaries become engorged with blood and dilate, the vessels become more visible, notably due to the thinness of the skin around the eye contour. Furthermore, impaired lymphatic circulation prevents proper drainage of blood pigments, which accumulate and become visible beneath the skin. Vascular dark circles are especially noticeable in fair skin, although darker phototypes can also exhibit them.

Several techniques can attenuate the purple discoloration of vascular dark circles.

The use of cosmetic active ingredients to enhance blood circulation.

To decongest blood vessels and thus reduce bluish dark circles, it can be beneficial to apply cosmetic active ingredients that have draining properties, such as caffeine, vitamin K or even immortelle essential oil. These three actives have indeed been shown to improve microcirculation, via through different mechanisms: caffeine accelerates blood circulation, vitamin K strengthens vascular walls, thereby promoting lymphatic drainage and microcirculation, and immortelle essential oil inhibits nitric oxide synthesis, a compound contributing to fluid stagnation.

The combined effects of caffeine and vitamin K on the eye contour were evaluated in a clinical trial involving 11 women with dark circles. Over a four-week period, participants applied eye patches formulated with 3% caffeine and 1% vitamin K in an emu oil base. At the end of the study, a reduction in dark-circle visibility was observed in all volunteers. Owing to their impact on blood circulation, these two actives thus appear promising for mitigating vascular dark circles.

Carboxytherapy.

Carboxytherapy is a noninvasive technique that involves injecting purified carbon dioxide beneath the skin. Naturally present in the body, this gas acts by dilating blood vessels, which improves local blood circulation and increases tissue oxygenation. Carboxytherapy is therefore commonly used to diminish bluish under-eye circles. It is generally recommended to undergo one session per week for five to six weeks to achieve significant results.

The effectiveness of carboxytherapy, combined with the prior application of a 20% lactobionic acid solution—a mild exfoliant—was evaluated in a recent clinical trial involving 39 individuals with either vascular or pigmentary under-eye dark circles. A significant improvement in the periorbital appearance was observed in 82.1% of participants presenting vascular dark circles, suggesting the potential benefit of carboxytherapy for bluish discoloration.

The vascular laser.

The vascular laser is another treatment option for bluish under-eye circles. By emitting wavelengths between 500 and 600 nm, this device targets hemoglobin, one of the main blood pigments. When the laser light is directed onto the skin, it is absorbed by the blood vessels located beneath its surface. This causes coagulation and the gradual destruction of small vessels, improving local blood circulation and reducing the visibility of bluish veins under the thin skin around the eyes.

Radiofrequency.

Bluish under-eye circles can also be reduced using radiofrequency. By emitting high-frequency electromagnetic waves, this technique generates heat in the deeper layers of the skin. This stimulates collagen production and improves skin firmness, thereby reducing the visibility of underlying blood vessels. Depending on the intensity of the circles, one to three sessions spaced one month apart are required. Aside from possible slight skin warming and transient redness, radiofrequency is a safe method.

Hyaluronic acid injections.

A well-known filling technique, hyaluronic acid injections can reduce under-eye circles, regardless of their type, for 12 to 18 months. When injected into the dermal layer, hyaluronic acid increases its water-holding capacity, which enables tissue tightening and restores volume to the orbital contour, thus softening the tear trough area. Additionally, by densifying the skin, these injections can reduce the visibility of pigmented under-eye circles.

A relatively recent clinical trial involving 49 patients with combined under-eye dark circles (both pigmented and hollow) yielded positive results. The volunteers received an injection of a gel composed of a mixture of cross-linked and non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid, amino acids, glutathione, vitamin B6, and lidocaine, an anesthetic. The participants’ average satisfaction score at the end of the procedure was 9.97 out of 10, and the effects of the injection remained visible for approximately 12 months. As for treatment side effects, three patients developed a small bruise and two experienced mild swelling, but these marks had faded after one week.

Aside from the application of cosmetic active ingredients, the solutions discussed pertain to aesthetic medicine: therefore, it is essential to be well-informed before using them and to seek the opinion of a healthcare professional to verify their appropriateness and ensure there are no contraindications.

To diminish your dark circles, we recommend using our morning and evening dark circles and puffiness serum and our dark circles and puffiness eye contour cream. These two treatments contain caffeine, an active ingredient that stimulates blood circulation in the eye-contour area and accelerates lymphatic drainage, thereby promoting the elimination of accumulated toxins and waste. They also contain niacinamide, to reinforce the skin barrier. To optimize the efficacy of the serum and the cream, it is best to apply them with a gentle massage or light tapping under the eyes, which enhances the penetration of the active ingredients and boosts blood circulation.

You can also camouflage bluish under-eye circles. To do this, choose our tinted concealer which delivers high coverage and a natural finish. In addition to evening out the eye contour and correcting pigment irregularities, this treatment is enriched with cornflower hydrosol, niacinamide, and caffeine to provide lasting improvement in the appearance of dark circles and puffiness.

• AHMADRAJI F. & al. Evaluation of the clinical efficacy and safety of an eye counter pad containing caffeine and vitamin K in emulsified Emu oil base. Advanced Biomedical Research (2015).

• JECAN R. C. & al. The use of hyaluronic acid combined with teosyal redensity II for the treatment of dark circles under the eyes. Materiale Plastice (2017).

• ROTSZTEJN H. & al. Efficacy of fractional laser, radiofrequency and IPL rejuvenation of periorbital region. Lasers in Medical Science (2022).

• ROTSZTEJN H. & al. The impact of carboxytherapy and treatments combining carboxytherapy and selected chemical peels on vascular and pigmentary components of the dark circles. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (2024).