Does washing your face cause more pimples?

In response to this misconception, many patients with blemishes attempt to aggressively cleanse their skin multiple times a day. However, an increasingly proposed hypothesis suggests that over-washing the face may actually lead to more blemishes. It appears that the disruption of the skin's barrier function could be associated with a comedogenic mechanism. A study conducted with individuals suffering from mild acne showed that these patients had a disrupted stratum corneum and a lower content of sphingolipids, lipids that play a crucial role in the skin barrier, compared to individuals with healthy skin. No difference in sebum secretion rate was observed between the two groups, suggesting that a disruption of the skin's stratum corneum may be part of the pathophysiology leading to the formation of blemishes.

This hypothesis was further supported in another study where a reduction of lamellar granules in the upper part of hair follicles exhibiting comedones was observed compared to "normal" follicles. Lamellar granules play a crucial role in the release of ceramides, lipids necessary for the proper functioning of the skin barrier. A decrease in these granules leads to a reduction of ceramides in the horny layer and an alteration of the barrier function. Researchers have also linked this decrease to a hyperkeratosis of the skin, one of the factors contributing to the formation of pimples. This theory is based on the idea that the skin responds to an alteration of the skin barrier by producing a thicker horny layer.

When done excessively, face washing can damage the skin's natural hydrolipidic film and lead to a weakening of its barrier function, which could promote the appearance of pimples.

However, it is crucial to emphasize that this risk only exists if washing is too frequent or done with harsh, detergent products. When performed gently and with suitable skincare products, skin cleansing is an effective way to limit the onset of blemishes. A recent clinical study conducted with acne patients has indeed shown that the daily use of a gentle cleanser, compared to a soap-containing cleanser, resulted in a significantly lower number of comedones and inflammatory papules. The improvement observed with the gentle cleanser can be explained by the fact that soap interacts with the skin barrier and contributes to the pathogenesis of follicular hyperkeratinization, and thus to the formation of pimples.

Skin cleansing and pimples: how often should you wash your face?

With that being said, the following question arises: how often should one wash their face to prevent blemishes? While few scientists have delved into this issue, there is a clinical trial that examined the effect of face washing frequency on 24 men suffering from mild to moderate acne. These volunteers were divided into three groups in which cleansing was to be performed once, twice, or four times a day for six weeks. A slight but significant improvement in open comedones and non-inflammatory lesions was observed in the group that washed their face twice a day. The usual recommendation of cleansing acne-prone skin twice a day seems to be slightly supported by this study. However, the small number of participants calls for caution in interpreting these results.