Lien entre pollution et teint terne.

Dull complexion: The impacts of pollution on skin radiance.

Defined by the World Health Organization as "the contamination of the indoor or outdoor environment by any chemical, physical or biological agent that alters the natural characteristics of the atmosphere," pollution has a significant impact on human health, as well as the appearance of the skin. What role does it play in the dulling of the complexion? Let's explore this question together.

Summary
Published January 22, 2025, updated on January 22, 2025, by Pauline, Chemical Engineer — 5 min read

What are the effects of pollution on the complexion?

Whether it originates naturally or is man-made, pollution has significant effects on human health, as well as on the skin. There are numerous sources of pollutants, which can be either natural or anthropogenic, including swamps, biological decomposition, thermal power plants, and the incineration of household and industrial waste. Even though air pollution is most prevalent in urban environments and activity zones, rural areas are not spared. It's worth noting that the main atmospheric pollutants affecting the skin are polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), volatile organic compounds, nitrogen oxides, airborne fine particles, ozone, and heavy metals.

Chronic exposure to increasing amounts of all these forms of pollutants compromises the integrity and radiance of the skin.

In fact, environmental pollutants are responsible for increasing oxidative stress in skin cells. This manifests as an intensification of the production of free radicals and reactive oxygen species, by the peroxidation of polyunsaturated fatty acids, notably found in the hydrolipidic film, and by the depletion of the skin's endogenous antioxidant capacity, relying on the activities of enzymes, such as glutathione peroxidase and catalase, but also on antioxidants naturally present in the skin, like vitamin C and vitamin E. However, when the skin's antioxidant defense potential is exceeded, meaning that the cells can no longer eliminate free radicals, a series of reactions are set in motion, notably impacting the uniformity of the complexion.

Indeed, free radicals generated by pollution can damage various skin organelles, including keratinocytes, the cells that make up the epidermis. Oxidative stress can particularly alter the DNA and mitochondrial activity of keratinocytes, thereby disrupting their ability to proliferate and potentially leading to a slowdown in cellular renewal. This slowdown results in an accumulation of dead cells on the skin's surface, forming a thick and irregular horny layer. This agglomeration prevents light from reflecting properly on the skin, giving it a dull and tired appearance.

Furthermore, studies have shown that carbon monoxide, which comes from the incomplete combustion of organic materials such as natural gas, wood, coal, gasoline, or oil, can bind to the hemoglobin in red blood cells and alter its conformation, thereby reducing its ability to transport oxygen. Indeed, the affinity of carbon monoxide for hemoglobin is 210 to 260 times stronger than that of oxygen. Even when present in minute quantities in the air, carbon monoxide will preferentially bind to the hemoglobin in the blood instead of oxygen. This decrease in oxygenation is also felt at the level of skin cells. This oxygen deficit, or hypoxia, can lead to a reduction in the production of keratinocytes, an accumulation of dead cells, and consequently, a lack of skin radiance.

Équation de réaction de la formation d'oxyhémoglobine et de carboxyhémoglobine.
Reaction equation for the formation of oxyhemoglobin and carboxyhemoglobin.

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