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Tout savoir sur les sérums fortifiants pour les cils et les sourcils

Everything you need to know about eyelash and eyebrow serums.

These treatments have emerged on the cosmetic market in recent years and their success shows no signs of waning. By nourishing the eyelashes and eyebrows with their active ingredients, these serums help to promote hair growth, thicken them, sometimes darken them, and improve their density. But what are they generally made of? When and how should they be applied? Are there any dangers associated with their use? We answer your questions.

How do eyelashes and eyebrows grow?

The function of eyelashes and eyebrows is to protect the eyes from dust and sweat droplets. On average, they reach a length of about ten millimeters. Their life cycle unfolds in three phases: the growth, stagnation (catagen phase), and shedding (telogen phase). Each eyelash and eyebrow independently follows its own cycle, which is why the eyes are continuously protected by long eyelashes and thick eyebrows.

The growth phase extends over one to two months. Hairs that have completed their growth enter the second phase (stagnation). During this transition period, the hair follicle shrinks. This period lasts about three weeks. During this transition phase, the eyelash can fall out prematurely and regrowth does not occur instantly. Regrowth will not begin until the end of the catagen phase.

Throughout this cycle, it is crucial to care for one's eyelashes and eyebrows to ensure they remain healthy and do not fall out prematurely. Hence, the usefulness of a fortifying serum for eyelashes and eyebrows!

What do lash and brow fortifying serums typically contain?

Eyelash and eyebrow serums are most commonly direct aqueous or emulsified gels (with a majority aqueous phase and a minority oil phase). They contain various categories of ingredients:

  • The solvent : Most often listed first on the INCI list, thewater is the most common solvent in eyelash and eyebrow serums.

  • Gelling Agents: The consistent texture is provided to eyelash and eyebrow serums through texturizing agents, which are most often natural or synthetic polymers. Among the natural texturizers, we can mention sclerotium gum (INCI name: "Sclerotium Gum"), xanthan gum (INCI name: "Xanthan Gum") or even tara gum (INCI name: "Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum").

  • The active ingredients: Generally, those found in eyelash and eyebrow serums are fortifying and nourishing (e.g., castor oil, pea peptides, panthenol, biotinoyl-GHK...). They stimulate, strengthen, and densify the cells of the eyelashes and eyebrows, while helping to keep them healthy.

  • Humectant Compounds: The humectant nature of an ingredient relies on its ability to retain water molecules due to its hygroscopic power (strong affinity for water). On the market, the potential humectant compounds present in an eyelash and eyebrow serum are the glycerin, the propylene glycol, polyethylene glycols (PEG), or even the pentylene glycol.

  • Fatty substances: Some eyelash/eyebrow serums contain vegetable oils to nourish these hair follicles. For example, the eyelash serum Typology contains vegetable castor oil("Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil").

  • Emulsifiers: The blending of fatty substances with water is made possible by the presence of surfactants, which disperse oil droplets in the aqueous solution to form a stable emulsion.

  • Preservatives: The lash/brow serum is typically a gel basedproduct, it is susceptible to bacterial growth. In response to this, to maintain the product's effectiveness and safety, it is essential to incorporate preservatives.

Are there any dangers associated with the use of a strengthening serum for eyelashes and eyebrows?

Eyelashes and eyebrows are particularly sensitive areas due to their proximity to the eyes.When applying a treatment or makeup to the lashes, through a process known as "migration", it takes 5 to 10 minutes before it penetrates into the eye, due to perspiration and eyelid blinking.

The consequences of using an eyelash/eyebrow serum are correlated with the ingredients present in the formulas.Therefore, it is advisable to avoid strengthening eyelash and eyebrow serums that contain growth hormones such as prostaglandin. Indeed, in 2022, the European Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety (SCCS) concluded that the use of prostaglandin analogues in cosmetic products may pose a risk to consumer health. To identify these ingredients in INCI lists, look for the five letters "prost": isopropyl cloprostenate, ethyl tafluprostamide, dehydrolatanoprost, bimatoprost, cyclopropylbimatoprost etc.

Furthermore, some eyelash/eyebrow serums contain phenoxyethanol, a synthetic preservative known by the acronym EGPhE. However, the National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products attributes side effects such as moderate to severe eye irritation to this preservative. Therefore, avoid this ingredient when choosing and purchasing a strengthening serum for eyelashes and eyebrows.

How to apply an eyelash/eyebrow serum?

The golden rule is toalways use this type of treatment on lashes and brows that have been thoroughly cleansed.Start by using a preferably oily makeup remover to effectively remove any potential residues of mascara and eyebrow pencil. For this essential step in your beauty routine, you can use ourmakeup removing oilmade with a minimalist 7-ingredient formula and apply it using ourreusable cotton padsthat are washable and made from bamboo fibers.

Next, if you wish to use this serum on your eyelashes, we recommend that you remove your contact lenses if you wear them, even though the serum is generally ophthalmologically tested. Regarding the application, if the serum comes with a fine brush, like that of an eyeliner, draw a line on the lower and upper eyelids, at the base of the lashes. If the serum is instead provided with a brush, the application is similar to that of a mascara. Be sure to distribute the treatment along the entire length of the lashes, making "zigzag" movements.

As for the eyebrows, the application can be done with a finger or using a brush. Always distribute the treatment in the direction of hair growth, from the inside of the eyebrow towards the outside of the face.

When to use a serum for eyelashes and eyebrows?

Often untinted, it is applied preferably in the evening, after removing makeup and cleansing the face on clean, dry skin. If you apply it in the morning, wait a few minutes before putting on your mascara and eyebrow pencil, allowing the treatment to thoroughly penetrate the hair follicles.

Discover our Eyelash & Eyebrow Serum with 2% Pea Peptides + Castor Oil.

Composed of 96% natural origin ingredients, this fortifying serum does not contain phenoxyethanol or any prostaglandin derivatives. Based on pea peptides and castor oil, it nourishes, strengthens, and promotes the growth of eyelashes and eyebrows, naturally. It also contains a combination of active ingredients - Biotinyl-GHK / panthenol - which helps to stimulate the synthesis of collagen and laminin, molecules responsible for anchoring the bulb in the epidermis and thus strengthens the eyelashes and eyebrows.

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