Informations huile de sésame

Everything you need to know about sesame oil.

Sesame is among the oldest plants cultivated for its oil. Highly valued in cooking for its distinctive taste, sesame oil also offers numerous cosmetic benefits. With its rich phytochemical composition and interesting organoleptic properties, sesame oil is used in the formulation of skin and hair care products. Continue reading to discover everything there is to know about sesame oil.

A few words about sesame oil.

Sesame is a herbaceous plant belonging to the Pedaliaceae family. It is an annual plant that has been cultivated for over 3000 years, primarily in tropical regions and the Middle East. Known by the scientific name of Sesamum Indicum, sesame can grow up to two meters tall. Its seeds are small, oval, and flat, and grow in elongated, rigid pods. The famous phrase "Open Sesame" from the tale of Ali Baba is said to be inspired by the sound of mature sesame pods opening, which produces a relatively loud, dry noise.

Sesame is highly valued for its vegetable oil, which is clear, golden, and has an exotic taste. It is typically extracted from the seeds through cold pressing, a technique that allows the oil to retain most of its beneficial components. Sesame oil is characterized by a good stability to oxidation, partly due to its significant antioxidant activity. It can be used by all skin types, including oily skin, as it is non-comedogenic.

Sesame Oil: What is its Chemical Composition?

The sesame oil is known for its numerous virtues, which it exerts due to its phytochemical composition rich in bioactive compounds.

Bioactive CompoundPercentageProperty(ies)
Linoleic Acid37 to 48%Moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, healing
Oleic Acid 35 to 50%Nourishing, healing
Palmitic Acid 20 to 27%Moisturizer
Stearic Acid 4 to 7%Moisturizer
Arachidic Acid ≈ 1 %Moisturizer
Vitamin E≈ 1 %Antioxidant
Lignans (sesamin, sesamol) Less than 1%Antioxidant
Phytosterols Less than 1%Antioxidant, moisturizing, healing, anti-inflammatory
Phenolic CompoundsLess than 1%Antioxidant

Note : The composition of sesame vegetable oil can vary depending on where the tree is grown and how the oil is extracted from the seeds.

What are the benefits of sesame seed oil?

In cosmetics, the sesame oil can be used in topical or hair applications, either alone or diluted within a mixture. It is thus found in the formulation of numerous creams, serums, masks, or even conditioners. This oil, thanks to its composition, possesses a set of beneficial properties for the skin and hair, making its cosmetic use interesting.

  • Sesame oil promotes healing and soothes the skin.

    Sesame oil exhibits a noteworthy healing effect. A study by JAVDANI has particularly demonstrated that sesame oil aids in enhancing cellular regeneration by increasing vascular permeability and neovascularization. By promoting blood supply to the wound, sesame oil improves its healing. Furthermore, the hydration provided by the fatty acids in the oil improves the appearance of scars over time.

  • Sesame oil slows down skin aging by protecting the skin from oxidative stress.

    The high antioxidant content of sesame oil enables it to combat oxidative stress. Free radicals are unstable species produced in response to exposure to various factors (pollution, UV rays, tobacco, etc). By reacting with various cellular constituents, particularly with DNA, they accelerate the aging process, causing premature degeneration of cells and destabilizing the structural protein fibers of the dermis. By neutralizing these free radicals, the antioxidants in sesame oil prevent this phenomenon.

  • Sesame oil ensures skin hydration and increases its suppleness.

    Sesame oil is rich in fatty acids such as linoleic and oleic acids. These molecules form a film on the skin's surface, promoting skin hydration and limiting transepidermal water loss. They thus ensure the maintenance of the skin's lipid barrier integrity and boost the production of ceramides, which serve as intercellular cement in the epidermis. By strengthening the skin's structure, the fatty acids allow the skin to be more supple and elastic. Moreover, sesame oil contains phytosterols, which also capture and retain water within the epidermis. They thus ensure the support of the hydrolipidic film.

  • Sesame oil alleviates redness and soothes irritations.

    Thanks to the lignans it contains, particularly sesamin, the sesame oil has anti-inflammatory effects. This molecule works by significantly inhibiting the expression of mRNA of pro-inflammatory factors such as interleukins-1 and 6. In doing so, it soothes skin inflammation. Moreover, the other compounds in sesame oil (fatty acids, vitamin E, and phytosterols) work in synergy to enhance and speed up the inflammatory response, leading to a reduction in its symptoms. The sesame oil could therefore potentially help to alleviate the symptoms of inflammatory skin conditions like eczema.

  • Sesame oil protects and nourishes the hair, ensuring hair shine.

    The sesame oil exhibits intriguing properties for hair. Indeed, it nourishes hair fibers through biomimicry, making them shinier. The antioxidant activity of sesame oil could also potentially combat the onset of gray hair by mitigating the effects of oxidative stress.

Are there any precautions and contraindications for the use of sesame oil?

As mentioned earlier, sesame oil is suitable for all skin types, even those prone to acne. However, its allergenic potential should not be overlooked. Indeed, sesame oil contains "Ses i" glycoproteins, found in a total of 7. These proteins are believed to trigger an allergic reaction mediated by immunoglobulin E (Ig E). This type of allergic reaction is primarily found following the ingestion of sesame oil, however, it is recommended for those with sensitive skin to be cautious.

To minimize the risk of skin reactions, it is strongly recommended to perform a tolerance test, either in the crook of the elbow or behind the ear, before using sesame oil for the first time. Lastly, to ensure its quality, we advise you to store it under conditions that allow for limiting the risk of oxidation. Therefore, keep your sesame oil in a closed and airtight bottle, away from light and heat.

Where can one find sesame oil?

You can find the nourishing and antioxidant virtues of sesame oil in our shimmering dry oil. Also formulated with safflower oil, moringa oil, plum oil, and hibiscus oil, this treatment hydrates and nourishes the skin and hair while protecting them from oxidative stress. Moreover, this dry oil contains ascorbyl palmitate, a form of fat-soluble and stabilized vitamin C that easily penetrates the skin barrier and resists UV and heat. In addition to providing softness, nutrition, and protection to the skin and hair, this treatment gives them a luminous finish and a satin glow thanks to the natural nacres present in its formula.

Sources

  • HWANG L. & al. Sesame Oil. Bailey's Industrial Oil and Fat Products (2005).

  • SCHNEIDER L. & al. Prenatal food allergen exposures and odds of childhood peanut, tree nut, or sesame seed sensitization. Allergy, asthma & immunology (2013).

  • AROOJ A. & et al. Stress and Hair: Is there a Connection? Pakistan Journal of Medical & Health Sciences (2015).

  • JAVDANI A. & al. The Healing Effect of Sesame Oil, Camphor, and Honey on Second Degree Burn Wounds in Rats. World Journal of Plastic Surgery (2018).

  • MENG Q. & al. Sesame (Sesamum indicumL.): An Exhaustive Review of Nutritional Value, Phytochemical Composition, Health Advantages, Food Development, and Industrial Applications. Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute Journal (2022).

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