Eye contour: why use retinol?

Retinol is a molecule that belongs to the retinoid family. As it is not synthesized by the body, this derivative of vitamin A is often incorporated into skincare targeting skin aging, although its skin benefits do not stop there. Retinol can also be useful in combating brown spots, excess sebum, or a dull complexion, for example. From a mechanistic perspective, this molecule accelerates cell renewal and stimulates the activity of fibroblasts, the cells that notably synthesize collagen and elastin. Once applied to the skin, retinol is converted into retinal and then into retinoic acid, before binding to RXR and RAR receptors. This binding results in the formation of an activated RAR/RXR heterodimeric complex that behaves like a transcription factor capable of modulating cell differentiation.

While retinol is notably effective, it is also associated with risks of skin irritation. These risks are amplified around the eye contour, where the skin is extremely thin, about five times thinner than the rest of the face, and delicate. That's why it's recommended to introduce retinol gradually into your skincare routine. Once the skin is accustomed to this active ingredient, it's possible to gradually increase the frequency of application, up to one to two times per day.

It would be unfortunate to give up on retinol for the eye area, as its effectiveness on wrinkles makes it a valuable asset for this region.

Indeed, several studies have demonstrated the effectiveness of retinol on the eye contour. One of them was conducted with 30 women with an average age of 50. For eight weeks, these volunteers applied a cream based on retinol and collagen on half of their face. The researchers, as well as the participants, noted a significant reduction in wrinkles on the side where the cream had been applied, particularly around the eyes, as shown in the photos below. No side effects were reported, but the concentration of retinol in the cream was not disclosed.

Another study reports similar findings. This study involved 57 patients, who had bluish dark circles and wrinkles around the eyes. Twice a day for eight weeks, they were asked to apply a gel containing 2% phytonadione, known for improving blood circulation, 0.1% retinol, 0.1% vitamin C, and 0.1% vitamin E. Although few details were given about the results, the study mentions a significant improvement in wrinkles, presumably due to the retinol in the treatment. However, five people had a slight reaction to the cream and developed a temporary erythema. Even though retinol's responsibility was not confirmed, this incident highlights the importance of testing your skincare products at first use and gradually integrating retinol into your skincare routine.

• KAWANA S. & al. The effects of topical application of phytonadione, retinol and vitamins C and E on infraorbital dark circles and wrinkles of the lower eyelids. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2004).

• ODDOS T. & al. Antiaging Action of Retinol: From Molecular to Clinical. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology (2009).

• KAWARA S. & al. Evaluation of anti-wrinkle effects of a novel cosmetic containing retinol using the guideline of the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association. The Journal of Dermatology (2009).

• MOOSAVI M. & al. A review of the efficacy of popular eye cream ingredients. International Journal of Women's Dermatology (2024).