Five tips for slowing skin aging.

The sun is one of the primary drivers of skin aging. Chronic exposure to ultraviolet rays leads to the progressive breakdown of the skin’s supporting structures. UVB, mainly absorbed by the epidermis, causes genotoxic damage by altering keratinocyte DNA. This damage disorganizes collagen fibers and promotes their premature degradation. UVA, which penetrate more deeply, reach the dermis and trigger the expression of matrix metalloproteinases—enzymes responsible for breaking down collagen and elastin—weakening the extracellular matrix and leads to gradual skin laxity. In parallel, UVA and UVB generate an excessive production of free radicals that intensifies the oxidative stress at the cellular level.

To limit these effects, the sunscreen must become a daily ritual in every season. UV rays penetrate clouds and remain active even in winter or shade, making it necessary to apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen covering both UVA and UVB. In winter, a cream with a SPF 30 provides a good balance between efficacy and comfort of use, while SPF 50 is essential in summer. The effectiveness of this approach was confirmed by a 2016 study of 32 volunteers aged 40 to 55. These participants applied SPF 30 sunscreen daily for one year. At the end of the study, a dermatologist observed significant improvements in signs of photoaging, including more even skin tone, a reduction in pigmentation spots, and firmer, better-hydrated skin.

The skin barrier corresponds to the outermost layer of the skin, mainly composed of corneocytes and intercellular lipids (ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids), along with the hydrolipidic film, a mixture of water and sebum at the epidermal surface. It acts as a true protective shield, limiting water loss and the penetration of irritants, allergens, and pollutants. This barrier function plays an essential role in the balance of the skin. Indeed, a skin barrier when impaired, it compromises cellular cohesion and promotes chronic inflammatory processes that contribute to accelerated skin aging.

An impairment of the skin barrier is not manifested solely by visible dryness: it is accompanied by changes in the skin’s topography. A study conducted in 32 patients with atopic dermatitis highlighted these changes. The researchers measured several parameters of barrier function (transepidermal water loss, hydration, elasticity, pH), as well as the structure of the skin surface. Compared with healthy skin, eczematous lesions exhibited a twofold increase in water loss, reduced hydration, and weakened elasticity. Structurally, the damaged skin showed more wrinkles. These observations confirm that a weakened skin barrier contributes to premature skin aging.

Preserving the skin barrier helps maintain a more youthful complexion. The use of lipid-rich moisturizers (ceramides, fatty acids, cholesterol) and humectant agents (glycerin, hyaluronic acid, panthenol) strengthens cellular cohesion and restores the water-retention capacity of the stratum corneum. A clinical study clearly demonstrates this effect: a biphasic serum containing 17.5% plant oils, 61% water, 2% panthenol, 2.7% glycerin, and hyaluronic acid was tested on eight volunteers over 14 days. The researchers observed a significant decrease in transepidermal water loss and an increase in stratum corneum hydration in the serum group, whereas no noticeable improvement was seen in the control group.

Tailored cosmetic formulations that combine an oil phase and an aqueous phase to deliver both hydrating agents and nourishing lipids thereby help support the skin barrier.

An appropriate skincare routine is essential for slowing skin aging because it helps protect the skin from external aggressors and stimulate its regeneration mechanisms. Among the most studied actives are antioxidants and the retinoids. Antioxidants, such as vitamin C, vitamin E, coenzyme Q10, or niacinamide, which neutralize free radicals produced by UV radiation, pollution, and cellular oxidative stress. They thus prevent lipid oxidation, collagen degradation, and the formation of pigmentation spots. The retinoids, such as retinol, retinaldehyde, or retinoic acid, have antioxidant properties and stimulate cell turnover and collagen synthesis. By regulating keratinocyte differentiation and reinforcing the dermal matrix, they help reduce wrinkles and maintain skin firmness.

Antioxidants: solid scientific evidence for firmer skin.

The benefits of vitamin C in the management of photoaging are well documented. A clinical trial conducted in 20 women aged 30 to 50 years with regular UV exposure evaluated the efficacy of a topical treatment containing vitamin C combined with a recombinant peptide (SH-polypeptide-10). After two weeks of daily application, researchers observed asignificant improvement in periocular wrinkles and a visible reduction in pigmentation. These results confirm that vitamin C acts at multiple levels to enhance skin radiance and prevent photoaging.

Retinoids: a scientifically proven effect on wrinkles and skin firmness.

Retinoids are now among the most extensively studied active ingredients for their ability to diminish the signs of aging. The study conducted by MAJMUDAR and his team provides compelling evidence. Forty-one women aged 35 to 55 applied a serum containing 0.1% of retinol every other day for two weeks, then daily for ten weeks. After twelve weeks, confocal microscopy analyses revealed an average 46.28% increase in epidermal thickness, reflecting renewed cellular turnover. Clinical results also showed a significant reduction in wrinkles, illustrating the efficacy of retinoids in preventing skin aging.

Nutrition plays a role in preventing skin aging, in addition to its importance for overall health. A large-scale study conducted in the Netherlands between 2010 and 2014 explored the links between dietary habits and the presence of facial wrinkles. The researchers analyzed standardized photographs of 4,649 participants, of whom 2,753 were included in the final analysis. Nutrient intake was assessed using a questionnaire, and the results were adjusted for various factors, such as age, sex, smoking status, and body mass index (BMI).

The study’s conclusions appear to indicate that skin aging is influenced by lifestyle factors and nutritional choices.

Although overall energy intake did not directly affect the presence of wrinkles, adherence to a healthy diet—measured by a high score on the Dutch Healthy Diet Index (DHDI)—was associated with a significant reduction in wrinkles in women (-4.19%). In men, however, the observed difference did not reach statistical significance.

Researchers suggest that certain foods could influence skin structure and resilience, particularly due to their richness in antioxidants, unsaturated fatty acids, and essential micronutrients. Even though these findings should be interpreted with caution, other studies point in the same direction: a diet rich in red berries, green vegetables, or dark chocolate, recognized sources of antioxidants, is frequently associated with skin that is more resistant to oxidative stress and shows fewer signs of aging over time.

True or false? Drinking plenty of water helps slow down skin aging.

This is a misconception. Current studies show no solid clinical evidence indicating that increased water intake prevents the onset of wrinkles. Adequate overall hydration does contribute to more supple skin, but drinking more water alone is not sufficient to slow the skin’s aging process.

Tobacco, pollution, lack of sleep... are all factors that stress the body, especially the skin, and accelerate its aging. In short, like UV rays, tobacco and pollution generate oxidative stress and chronic inflammation in skin cells, compromising the integrity of the dermal extracellular matrix, which is directly responsible for skin firmness. As for sleep deprivation and psychological stress, they activate the hypothalamic–pituitary–adrenal axis, leading to chronic secretion of cortisol, adrenaline, and noradrenaline—molecules that also promote systemic inflammation and free radical production.

To limit these effects and slow down the aging of your skin, we recommend adopting a protective lifestyle, which involves avoiding tobacco use, reducing exposure to pollutants (notably by cleansing the skin each evening), maintaining a balanced diet, and ensuring restorative sleep of at least seven hours per night.

• RAMOS-E-SILVA M. & al. Anti-aging cosmetics: Facts and controversies. Clinics in Dermatology (2013).

• MAJMUDAR G. & al. A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2015).

• SOUTHALL M. & al. Daily use of a facial broad spectrum sunscreen over one-year significantly improves clinical evaluation of photoaging. Dermatologic Surgery (2016).

• NIJSTEN T. & al. A healthy diet in women is associated with less facial wrinkles in a large Dutch population-based cohort. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (2019).

• JUARRANZ A. & al. Environmental stressors on skin aging – Mechanistic insights. Frontiers in Pharmacology (2019).

• TONG T. & al. Boosting the photoaged skin: The potential role of dietary components. Nutrients (2021).

• GRÖNNIGERA E. & al. A biomimetic combination of actives enhances skin hydration and barrier function via modulation of gene expression: Results of two double-blind, vehicle-controlled clinical studies. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology (2022).

• MONTERO-VILCHEZ T. & al. Skin barrier function and microtopography in patients with atopic dermatitis. Journal of Clinical Medicine (2024).

• KIM B.-G. Effects of vitamin C and SH-polypeptide-10 cosmetic ingredients on wrinkle improvement and skin whitening. Journal of the Korean Society of Cosmetology (2024).