How does a man take care of his facial skin?

To establish a skincare routine that is effective and targeted, it is imperative to understand your skin type and prioritize its needs. Generally, men's skin tends to be oilier than women's, due to hormonal reasons. Indeed, testosterone, which is 6 to 7 times more prevalent in men, targets receptors in the sebaceous glands whose activation triggers the production of sebum. This is the main food source for Cutibacterium acnes, the acne-causing bacteria, making men more prone to skin imperfections. Moreover, it's worth noting that beard hairs, which naturally protect against external aggressions, are a source of irritation when shaved daily. Lastly, men's skin is approximately 20% thicker than women's.

At Typology, we have developed a skin diagnosis that allows you to receive a skincare routine tailored to your needs.

The cornerstone of any effective skincare routine, skin cleansing is particularly important for men. To be performed every evening, this crucial step helps to remove impurities, excess sebum, and pollution residues that may have accumulated on the skin's surface throughout the day. Thorough cleansing is essential to maintain healthy skin and prevent skin problems such as blemishes. If you feel the need or if your skin is particularly oily, it is also possible to cleanse it in the morning.

Even though men's skin is relatively thick, it should not be weakened. To take care of it, it is recommended to choose a gentle cleanser, free from alcohol derivatives and irritating sulfated surfactants, and respecting the balance of the skin barrier while effectively removing impurities. Regarding active ingredients, we recommend zinc or clay, which are astringents, and niacinamide, an anti-inflammatory. By removing impurities and preparing the skin, cleansing improves the absorption and effectiveness of subsequent products, thus ensuring healthy and radiant skin.

All skin types require hydration, even those that produce a lot of sebum, such as men's skin. Indeed, this type of skin is also prone to water loss, which disrupts the hydration balance. To limit dehydration, protect against external aggressions, and at the same time, rebalance the sebum level, it is beneficial to apply a moisturizing treatment twice daily. Moreover, well-hydrated skin is less prone to irritations, redness, and premature aging.

We recommend men to opt for lightweight, non-greasy formulas that quickly penetrate the skin. Hydrating gels or light emulsions are often good options. As for the key ingredients in moisturizers, we find the hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and squalane, which help retain water in the skin and strengthen the skin barrier. For sensitive skin, soothing agents such as bisabolol, allantoin, or panthenol are recommended and help reduce irritation and inflammation.

Protecting oneself from the sun is a crucial step to take, regardless of gender. Indeed, let's remember that UV rays, in addition to being sources of skin cancer, tend to exacerbate various skin issues (acne, rosacea, melasma...) and to accelerate the aging process by triggering the synthesis of free radicals, species that notably act by degrading the structural protein fibers of the dermis. Incorporating sun protection into one's routine, even on cloudy days, is a simple but necessary measure to preserve the health of one's skin.

Furthermore, there are now many sunscreen formulations available, allowing everyone, even the most reluctant, to find a product that suits them. As for the necessary degree of protection, it is generally recommended to always choose an SPF 50 in the summer. An SPF 30 may be sufficient in winter, unless you are going skiing. Indeed, snow can reflect nearly 80% of UV rays, thereby intensifying exposure.

To refine the stratum corneum and give men's skin a glow, it is recommended to perform one or two exfoliations per week. This can be done through mechanical scrubbing (grain scrub) or chemical exfoliation (AHA, BHA, PHA...), which exfoliants help to remove dead cells accumulated on the skin surface, thereby preventing pore blockage and blemishes. This procedure is preferably performed in the evening, after cleansing, due to the sensitivity it induces in the skin. Also recommended for women, exfoliation greatly benefits male skin, which is typically thicker and generally prone to higher sebum production.

Whether you choose to shave every day or sport a beard of varying thickness, this masculine feature requires certain maintenance. Indeed, in the first case, it is recommended to regularly wash your beard with specific shampoos. In addition to ensuring the cleanliness of your hair and the skin underneath, this action will allow you to have a soft and silky beard. To perfect its maintenance, we advise you to apply once or twice a week an oil or a blend of vegetable oils, such as castor oil, sunflower oil, or argan oil for example.

In the case of daily or near-daily shaving, the skin is often dry and may even exhibit irritations. Shaving is indeed a process that disrupts the hydrolipidic film and causes skin heating. To soothe the skin and rebuild the skin barrier, it is important to use a soothing and moisturizing after-shave. If you are seeking naturalness, you can directly apply certain ingredients such as the shea butter or aloe vera to soften the sensitized skin.

• TUR E. Physiology of the skin - Differences between women and men. Clinics in Dermatology (1997).

• SCHLESSINGER J. & al. Skin care for men and its marketing. Dermatologic Therapy (2007).