Sensitive scalp, dry, colored, or compromised hair… each condition demands a specific solution. Hair serums are precisely formulated to address targeted needs, but their variety can be bewildering. Some act directly on the scalp, while others focus on the lengths and ends. How can you determine which one truly meets your requirements? Discover our tips for making the right choice.
How to choose the right hair serum?
Summary
Published on September 15, 2025, updated on September 15, 2025, by Pauline, Chemical Engineer — 7 min of reading
Themes:
The essential point to remember.
Determining your hair needs (dandruff, thinning scalp, frizz, split ends...) is the first step in selecting a hair serum.
Asking the right questions helps distinguish hair-growth serums, soothing serums, anti-dandruff serums, and reparative serums.
Knowing your hair type guides the selection of hair serum texture: lighter formulations for fine hair, richer ones for dry, curly, or weakened hair.
Hair serums often combine multiple functions: nutrient delivery, protection, and repair; however, their efficacy depends on how well the product aligns with the specific hair profile.
4 minutes to understand your skin. Our dermatological diagnostic guides you toward the ideal skincare for your specific needs. Simple, quick, personalized.
Identify your specific needs to choose the right hair serum.
Choosing a hair serum does not start with texture or brand, but with a personal needs analysis. A serum is a concentrated treatment formulated to act in a targeted manner and address a specific concern that must first be defined. This step resembles a personal diagnostic evaluation, similar to skin assessments that help establish a facial care routine, allowing differentiation between the needs of the scalp and those of the hair lengths.
For the scalp, the objective is to act directly on the skin that houses hair follicles and underpins scalp balance. Depending on hair type, a serum can stimulate growth or slow hair loss by supporting the anagen phase, soothe local inflammation, or rebalance the production of sebum and the microbiome, aiming to reduce dandruff. Concerning the lengths and ends, the approach differs, since the hair fiber is an inert structure incapable of self-regeneration. Here, serums aim to repair cuticle alterations, fill lipid gaps, limit mechanical breakage, and protect against external aggressors such as heat, friction, or UV rays.
To help clarify your needs, here is a table of practical questions that directly guide you to the appropriate type of serum:
| Question to ask yourself | Recommended Type of Hair Serum |
|---|---|
| Am I experiencing increased hair shedding compared to normal? / Do I feel as though my hair has stopped growing? | Serum to support hair growth and slow hair loss, enriched with caffeine or biomimetic peptides |
| Do I have dandruff or persistent itching? | Anti-dandruff serum combining keratolytic agents with antifungal actives (piroctone olamine, ciclopirox olamine...) |
| Does my scalp become oily as early as the day after shampooing? | Mattifying hair serum, based on zinc or sarcosine, for example |
| Is my scalp sensitive or prone to irritation? | Soothing hair serum containing anti-inflammatory active ingredients (aloe vera, colloidal oatmeal, panthenol...) |
| Are my hair tips splitting, or is my hair breaking easily? | Restorative hair serum rich in ceramides, restructuring plant oils, and keratin |
| Does my hair lack shine and appear dull? | Shine-enhancing hair serum, often enriched with lightweight oils and active ingredients capable of forming a film around the hair fibers to reflect light. |
| Do I experience frizz that is difficult to control during styling? | Hair smoothing serum containing film-forming and protective agents against humidity |
| Do I regularly use heat-styling devices (hair dryer, flat iron)? | Heat-protective hair serum, formulated with heat-resistant film-forming polymers |
Questions to identify the type of hair serum best suited to your needs.
Answering these simple questions is the first step in identifying the category of hair serum that best meets your needs.
Determining your hair type to choose the optimal hair serum.
Once you have identified your need, it is important to take into account your hair type, which strongly influences the effectiveness and comfort of a hair serum. Indeed, just as certain cosmetics are better tolerated by oily skin than by dry skin and vice versa, the same hair serum formulation can weigh down some hair types or, conversely, be insufficient for others.
Fine, flat hair : Often seeking volume, this hair type is quickly weighed down by rich textures. The most suitable hair serums for fine, flat hair are lightweight and water-based, formulated to penetrate rapidly without leaving a greasy residue.
Thick hair : The cuticle of this hair type is generally quite porous, which leads to rapid moisture loss. To care for it, it’s best to favor serums that are richer, possibly oil-based. Unlike fine hair, a film-forming treatment doesn’t weigh down thick hair but enhances its suppleness and manageability.
Curly, wavy, or coily hair : Contrary to common assumptions, this hair type is fragile. Its vulnerability arises at torsion points where hair fibers bend, making them prone to breakage. Hair serums that combine nourishment and protection—often based on vegetable oils or butters—help maintain curl definition while reducing the dehydration.
Colored hair or damaged hair : Dyeing, bleaching, and straightening processes alter keratin and weaken the cuticle, making the fiber more porous and more susceptible to oxidation. Hair serums specifically formulated for this hair type typically contain antioxidants (vitamin E, polyphenols, etc.) that help limit pigment degradation and contribute to prolonging color vibrancy.
An effective and tailored hair serum simultaneously addresses an identified need and the structural characteristics of the hair fiber.
≈ 32.7%
Individuals have straight hair.
≈ 41.6%
Individuals have wavy hair.
≈ 12.8%
Individuals have curly hair.
≈ 13.0%
Individuals have tightly coiled hair.
Discover Typology’s hair serum.
At Typology, we offer a restorative hair serum enriched with hyaluronic acid and plant-based keratin. Composed of 99% natural-origin ingredients, this non-greasy formula hydrates and strengthens the hair fiber to reduce breakage while imparting shine and softness. What’s the serum’s added benefit? It contains pearlescent pigments that reflect light to deliver a satin glow to the hair and intensify its shine.
Sources
TUNG J.K. et YASUDA M.R. Anatomy and physiology of the hair cycle. Hair Transplant Surgery and Platelet Rich Plasma (2020).
WESTGATE G. E. & al. How different is human hair? A critical appraisal of the reported differences in global hair fibre characteristics and properties towards defining a more relevant framework for hair type classification. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2023).
LEBARBANCHON L. & al. Types and characteristics of hair across the globe: Results of a multinational study on 19,461 individuals. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (2025).
