Do you need to adapt your hair-care routine based on hair porosity?

The hair porosity is a factor mentioned in hair care and remains unclear. It refers to the fiber’s ability to absorb and retain water and applied products. Porosity arises from the cuticle structure, the hair’s outer layer that acts as a barrier. When the cuticle is closed and smooth—when its scales align—the porosity is low. If scales are open or damaged, porosity rises and alters how hair responds to treatment. Low-porosity hair tends to repel water and products, hindering absorption. High-porosity hair shows higher intake and loss of active ingredients due to a weakened barrier.

Porosity influences how hair responds to hydrating, nourishing, or styling treatments.

Although the concept of hair porosity has gained attention, it remains one factor among many influencing the health and appearance of hair.

Indeed, hair texture, scalp sebum production, and scalp health are as important. The hair type and texture are determined by genetic and molecular factors that influence shape, diameter, and strength. It is important to know if your hair is straight, wavy, or curly and if it is coarse or fine before building your routine. Coily, textured hair requires extra care due to increased sensitivity. Studies show it has the lowest hydration levels because of high apolar lipid content. In addition, the distinctive curves of coily hair follicles lead to fragility and dryness.

We recommend considering hair growth rate and density to plan trims and set realistic expectations for length and volume, factors independent of their porosity. Hair growth rate ranges from 0.5 to 1.5 cm per month among individuals. Another factor is sebum production. For oily scalps, use a purifying shampoo once a week to extend intervals between washes and control hyperseborrhea. Conversely, those with drier scalps should choose hydrating shampoos rich in glycerin or plant oils to compensate for lower sebum levels.

The condition of your scalp is an important factor to consider, as it forms the environment in which your hair grows and develops. A healthy scalp promotes the growth of strong, healthy hair. If your scalp is irritated and shows itching or redness, consider calming treatments and gentle shampoos free of harsh sulfate surfactants that could worsen irritation. Ingredients like aloe vera and panthenol or oats can help care for sensitive scalps.

When building your hair routine, hair porosity should not be the primary criterion. Choose formulas that match your scalp condition (oily, dry, irritated) and your hair type (straight, fine, textured).

Note : If you wish to consider hair porosity to refine your routine, these guidelines may help. Low porosity hair has a tightly closed cuticle. Choose lightweight, water- or hydrosol-based formulas. These offer greater penetration into the hair fiber than heavy vegetable oils or rich, occlusive products. By contrast, high porosity hair benefits from treatments rich in film-forming agents, which create a protective barrier around the hair and fill cuticle gaps.