How to get rid of closed comedones?

Often referred to as microcysts, closed comedones are skin imperfections commonly found in oily skin, which produces a significant amount of sebum. An accumulation of dead cells on the skin's surface can also be a contributing factor, leading to the formation of the plug. Unlike blackheads, the sebum contained in a closed comedone is not in contact with the oxygen in the air: this is why it does not oxidize and remains white. Indeed, closed comedones are covered with a thin layer of skin that traps the sebum. Whiteheads are primarily found on the face, back, chest, and shoulders, areas rich in sebaceous glands.

It is advisable not to delay in addressing a closed comedone as this sebum-rich environment promotes the proliferation of the bacteria Cutibacterium acnes, which can lead to inflammation. The whiteheads then risk transforming into papules and pustules.

Advice #1: Do not, under any circumstances, manipulate a closed comedone.

Even though it may be tempting, it is crucial to resist the urge to touch a whitehead. Indeed, our hands carry numerous bacteria that can infiltrate the blocked hair follicle and create inflammation. This can turn a simple whitehead into a local infection, leading to the formation of pustules. Moreover, attempting to pop the pimple can cause a rupture of the hair follicle wall, thereby releasing sebum into the surrounding tissues, which can trigger the appearance of other comedones. Lastly, manipulating a closed comedone can damage the skin and increase the risk of scarring.

Tip : To avoid touching your whiteheads, you can use an anti-acne patch. In addition to helping conceal the blemish, it also protects it from friction, thus promoting its disappearance without leaving scars.

Advice #2: Establish a consistent and suitable skincare routine.

A consistent skincare routine tailored to one's skin issues can help reduce closed comedones, starting with a cleansing routine. This initial step helps to remove impurities and excess sebum buildup. However, be careful not to use a cleanser that is too harsh, as it could disrupt the skin barrier. Indeed, some studies have shown that a disruption in the skin's barrier function can promote the appearance of blemishes. That's why it's important not to underestimate the significance of skin hydration, regardless of your skin type.

The incorporation of exfoliating agents, such as AHA or BHA, can also help to unclog pores and thus eliminate closed comedones. AHAs, such as glycolic acid, work on the skin's surface to peel off dead cells from the horny layer, while BHAs, like salicylic acid, penetrate deeper into the pores to remove accumulated sebum. If you have sensitive skin, it is also possible to use PHAs, such as gluconolactone, which offer gentle exfoliation. Finally, it may be beneficial to use comedolytic agents, like benzoyl peroxide, topically.

Advice #3: Do not hesitate to consult a dermatologist.

If your closed comedones persist, multiply, or worsen, it's time to seek advice from a dermatologist. They can offer you more potent treatments depending on your acne and the risks of progression and scarring it entails. Antibiotics, either oral or topical, are often prescribed as a first-line treatment. Topical retinoids, such as adapalene or tretinoin, or oral ones, like isotretinoin, are also common treatment options and are known for their keratolytic, anti-inflammatory, and sebostatic virtues.

Some dermatologists also offer a skin cleansing procedure that gradually eliminates closed comedones. However, to maintain the results achieved, it is necessary to undergo this procedure every six months. Some dermatologists also suggest performing a skin cleansing before starting an acne treatment. By preventing microcysts from turning into inflammatory lesions, this can reduce the duration of the treatment.