How to use azelaic acid in cosmetics?

How to use azelaic acid?

Azelaic acid is a relatively uncommon active ingredient. However, it is a true ally for combination to oily skin types. It evens out the skin tone, mattifies the skin, tightens the pores, eliminates blemishes and unsightly scars, and prevents imperfections. Here are some tips on how to use it.

Published on November 1, 2021, updated on March 25, 2026, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 3 min of reading

Azelaic Acid in a Nutshell.

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid naturally found in wheat, rye, and barley. It regulates keratinization, a process by which living epidermal cells from the granular layer transform into dead squamous cells that can clog pores. Thus, azelaic acid reduces pore obstruction and therefore the formation of blackheads. It also fights against P. acnes, a microorganism responsible for inflammatory reactions in acne. Moreover, its anti-inflammatory properties help to reduce skin redness. Finally, it evens out the skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme that leads to the formation of melanin. Thus, it limits the phenomenon of hyperpigmentation characterized by brown spots on the skin surface.

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Dosage of Azelaic Acid.

This molecule serves a dual purpose as both a medicinal active (used to treat skin conditions such as common acne and rosacea) and a cosmetic ingredient. Its function depends on its concentration in the formula. In dermatology, creams typically contain between 15 and 20% of this molecule, while in cosmetics, the concentration generally hovers around 10%.

The use of Azelaic Acid in Cosmetics: A Guide.

Compared to other exfoliating acids such as glycolic acid and lactic acid, azelaic acid is gentler and less irritating for the most sensitive skin types. It is typically found in serums, creams, or even facial cleansing gels. Its use is particularly recommended for combination, oily, and/or acne-prone skin. It can be used daily, morning and evening :

Morning Routine : Apply 3 to 4 drops of the mattifying serum with azelaic acid on the face that has been previously cleaned and dried, avoiding the eye contour. Gently massage the skin with circular movements. Then apply a moisturizing cream suitable for your skin type followed by sun protection.
Evening Routine : After removing makeup/cleansing, first apply the matifying serum. Then, for a refined skin texture and visibly tightened pores, we recommend applying a few drops of the exfoliating serum with glycolic acid. Finish your routine with your usual night cream.

We advise you to use the matifying serum for at least four weeks to see its effects.