Azelaic acid is a little known active ingredient. However, it is a real ally for combination to oily skin. It evens out the complexion, mattifies the skin, tightens pores, eliminates blemishes and unsightly scars, and prevents imperfections. Find here some advice on how to use azelaic acid.
How to Use Azelaic Acid?
Published on November 1, 2021, updated on February 22, 2024, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 3 min of reading
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Azelaic Acid in a Few Lines.
Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid naturally present in wheat, rye, and barley. It regulates keratinization, the process by which living epidermal cells in the stratum granulosum turn into dead scaly cells that can clog pores. Thus, azelaic acid decreases pore clogging and therefore blackhead formation. It also fights against P. acnes, the microorganism that causes inflammatory reactions in acne. In addition, its anti-inflammatory properties help reduce skin redness. Finally, it evens out skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme that leads to the formation of melanin. Thus, it limits the phenomenon of hyperpigmentation characterized by brown spots on the surface of the skin.
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Azelaic Acid Dosage.
This molecule is both a medicinal active (medicine uses azelaic acid for acne and to treat other skin conditions such as rosacea) and a cosmetic ingredient. It all depends on its concentration in the formula. In dermatology, creams contain an average of 15-20%, while in cosmetics, the concentration is usually around 10%.
Azelaic Acid in Skincare, Instructions for Use.
These are some recommendations on how to use azelaic acid. Compared to other exfoliating acids such as glycolic acid and lactic acid, azelaic acid is gentler and less irritating for the most sensitive skin. It is generally found in serums, creams, or cleansing gels for the face. Its use is rather recommended for the mixed, fatty skins and with acneic tendency. When to use azelaic acid? It can be used daily, morning and evening:
Morning routine: Apply 3 to 4 drops of the matifying serum with azelaic acid to the face previously cleaned and dried, avoiding the eye contour. Gently massage the skin with circular motions. Then apply a moisturizer adapted to your skin type and then a sun protection.
Evening routine: After makeup removal/cleaning, first apply the mattifying serum. Then, for a refined skin texture and visibly tighter pores, we recommend applying a few drops of the glycolic acid exfoliating serum. Finish your routine with your usual night cream.
We recommend using the mattifying serum for at least four weeks to see its effects and the true azelaic acid before and after.
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