How To Use Polyglutamic Acid?

Polyglutamic acid (PGA) is a biopolymer isolated for the first time from the organism of the sea jellyfish. It allows it to store water in its delicate tissues, preventing the dehydration accelerated by its presence in the salt water of the ocean. Today, PGA is derived from traditional Japanese food called Nattô, which is fermented soybeans. It can also be biosynthesized from L-glutamic acid using the bacterium Bacillus subtilis.

Chemically, polyglutamic acid is a polymer derived from the amino acid glutamic acid. Its molecular formula is (C5H7NO3)n. In cosmetics, it is known for its moisturizing effect. It is able to form a protective film on the surface of the skin, limiting the evaporation of water. This is called a microgel; this structure swells and traps water, promoting water retention. Polyglutamic acid can bind up to 5,000 times its weight in water.

To moisturize the skin and thus prevent the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, various galenic dosage forms contain polyglutamic acid and are now sold on the cosmetics market. Thus, this active ingredient may be contained in creams, lotions and aqueous serums.

To be effective on the skin, polyglutamic acid must be concentrated to at least 0.3% in a cosmetic formula. Serums are usually the galenics with the highest concentration of active ingredients and therefore also of PGA. However, no more than 3% PGA should be present in a skin care product. An overdose of polyglutamic acid can weaken the epidermal tissue and promote the appearance of redness. Therefore, it is not recommended to use it alone. Since it is an acid, an elbow test should be performed before each application. In case of intolerance, you should avoid using skin care products containing polyglutamic acid.