Hyaluronic Acid for Microneedling: How Effective is it?

Microneedling, also known as Collagen Induction Therapy (CIT) and Percutaneous Collagen Induction (PCI), is a minimally invasive aesthetic dermatology treatment. It can be used for several purposes: restoring skin firmness, improving its texture, reducing the appearance of acne marks and scars, stretch marks, as well as pore size. Microneedling, which can be performed on various parts of the body, requires a device containing several fine needles, typically 0.5 to 1.5 mm long, that create micro-perforations in the epidermis and/or dermis. The creation of these micro-channels promotes the release of growth factors and leads to the synthesis and deposition of collagen and elastin in the dermis. More specifically, microneedling allows for the induction of a controlled skin lesion with minimal epidermal damage and stimulates the dermal healing cascade (inflammation, proliferation, and remodeling).

Most often, microneedling is combined with topical formulas containing one or more active ingredient(s) tailored to the patient's specific skin issue. The hyaluronic acid, due to its hydrating and healing properties, is one of the most popular choices. The micro-injuries created by microneedling enhance the skin's absorption of the gel and the effectiveness of the hyaluronic acid. Additionally, applying this active ingredient to the surface of the treatment area helps facilitate the glide of the microneedling device and prevents any unwanted damage to the overlying epidermis. Another possible use of hyaluronic acid in microneedling is as a carrier for the transport of molecules whose absorption by the skin is limited. Biocompatible and biodegradable, hyaluronic acid polymers can fulfill this role and several studies have demonstrated their effectiveness.

Typically, microneedling is performed in a clinic and lasts between 15 minutes and 1 hour, depending on the area to be treated. On a cleansed and disinfected skin, the practitioner applies a hyaluronic acid serum and makes several passes at different depths to reach all layers of the dermis. Depending on the length of the needle, the patient may experience varying levels of discomfort, which may or may not require the application of a numbing cream beforehand.

There are several microneedling devices available, the most well-known being the dermaroller, a cylinder covered in micro-needles. Today, we also find mechanical microneedling pens, which are more efficient. These devices are praised for their precision in reaching areas such as the eye contour, ensuring a greater number of micro-perforations in the same amount of time. After the session, it is recommended to thoroughly hydrate the skin, using a hyaluronic acid gel, for example.

While microneedling sessions are generally well-tolerated, they are not recommended for pregnant women, individuals suffering from autoimmune diseases, those undergoing anti-inflammatory or anticoagulant treatment, or those with skin lesions such as acne or herpes. Additionally, sun exposure is contraindicated in the week following microneedling, as it tends to sensitize the skin. Lastly, it's worth noting that redness and slight swelling may appear immediately after the session and can persist for a week.

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