Hyperpigmentation: Can vitamin E lighten the skin?

Often extracted from vegetable oils, vitamin E comprises eight lipophilic compounds, meaning soluble in fats: four tocopherols and four tocotrienols. For reasons of stability, alpha-tocopherol is the vitamin E most commonly used in cosmetic formulations and dietary supplements. Best known for its antioxidant properties, the benefits of this molecule extend further. Indeed, several studies suggest that vitamin E may help to prevent and reduce the appearance of pigmented spots. It could thus be used to even out skin tone and restore radiance.

How does vitamin E prevent brown spots?

Vitamin E primarily delivers a powerful antioxidant effect, essential in preventing brown spots. Indeed, hyperpigmentation issues are strongly linked to oxidative stress. Under UV exposure, pollution, smoking, or even due to internal metabolism, the skin can produce free radicals in excess. These unstable molecules damage cell membranes, lipids, and can interfere with the process of melanogenesis, thus promoting the formation of pigment spots.

Vitamin E exerts its effect by trapping free radicals before they can damage cellular structures.

More precisely, it is the hydroxyl group located on the aromatic ring of tocopherol that enables it to play this role: it donates an electron to the free radical, instantly stabilizing it. The vitamin E molecule then becomes a radical itself, but it remains more stable thanks to its system of conjugated double bonds, preventing the amplification of the oxidative chain reaction. By limiting this cascade, vitamin E contributes to limiting the risks of melanin overproduction, thereby helping to prevent the appearance of brown spots.

What is the effect of vitamin E on hyperpigmentation?

Moreover, various studies indicate that vitamin E could inhibit tyrosinase, a key enzyme in melanogenesis. Indeed, tyrosinase catalyzes the conversion of tyrosine into melanin. The inhibitory effect of vitamin E stems from its chemical structure, particularly its aromatic ring and free hydroxyl group. This arrangement allows its hydroxyl moiety to bind to the enzyme’s active site, while its side chain can associate with the hydrophobic protein pocket near the active site. This would block tyrosinase activity, and thus melanin synthesis.

A study in vitro conducted on murine B16 melanoma cells assessed the effect of δ-tocotrienol, a form of vitamin E, on melanin production. The researchers observed a significant decrease in melanin content in cells exposed to 50 and 100 µM δ-tocotrienol. This reduction in pigmentation was accompanied by decreased tyrosinase activity beginning at 10 µM and becoming more pronounced at higher doses. Analysis of mRNA levels also showed reduced tyrosinase gene expression. Overall, the results suggest that δ-tocotrienol promotes tyrosinase degradation, leading to decreased melanin production.

However, clinical evidence on the efficacy of vitamin E alone against brown spots remains limited and inconclusive.

To date, no study has demonstrated that it can reduce pigmentation when used without other depigmenting agents. For example, one study evaluated the efficacy of a lotion combining several ingredients, including vitamin E, kojic acid, arbutin, licorice extract and extract of Rumex occidentalis, on pigmented spots. The results showed a significant reduction in pigmentation, but this action cannot be attributed to vitamin E alone, since the other active ingredients have depigmenting effects that are, moreover, well documented.

To date, vitamin E is still primarily valued for its antioxidant properties, which can potentially help prevent pigmentary disorders.

• ONIKI T. & al. Novel vitamin E derivative with 4-substituted resorcinol moiety has both antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory properties. Lipids (2001).

• KATSAMBAS A. & al. Hyperpigmentation and melasma. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2007).

• BARRADAS T. N. & al. Vitamin E and derivatives in skin health promotion. Interactions, Diseases and Health Aspects (2021).

• CHOUDHARY S. & al. Evaluating the use of an advance lotion for addressing skin hyperpigmentation. Indian Journal of Clinical and Experimental Dermatology (2024).