Effet de la lumière infrarouge sur les rides.

Infrared phototherapy to smooth out wrinkles?

As a testament to the passage of time, the appearance of wrinkles can sometimes be difficult to accept. To address this, some individuals turn to phototherapy, specifically infrared light. How does infrared light therapy work? Can it truly combat wrinkles? Learn more by continuing to read.

Can infrared phototherapy reduce signs of aging?

It is entirely natural to see wrinkles form as time goes on. The appearance of these small furrows is due to a combination of genetic, hormonal, and environmental factors. Among the intrinsic processes, we can mention the gradual decrease in the synthesis of collagen and elastin, the dermal proteins ensuring the tone and elasticity of the skin, initiated from the age of 25, as well as the slowing down of cellular regeneration, estimated at 50% between 30 and 70 years, which leads to a thinning of the skin barrier. In addition to these internal factors, sun exposure throughout life plays a key role in the appearance of wrinkles. Referred to as photoaging, this process accounts for nearly 80% of skin aging. Finally, the expressions we adopt, which reflect our emotions, accelerate the establishment of wrinkles.

While some individuals are quite comfortable with their wrinkles and fine lines, the emergence of these aging signs can be distressing for others who then seek solutions. In recent years, a new method has gained popularity in combating skin sagging: the red and/or infrared light therapy. Indeed, this technique has its appeal: it can be performed at home, provided one invests in an LED mask, it is non-invasive, and it is associated with few side effects. Moreover, several studies have shown that it has interesting biological effects in reducing wrinkles.

Infrared light is primarily associated with a stimulation of fibroblast activity, the dermal cells that produce the collagen and elastin. More specifically, infrared light activates cytochrome c oxidase, a complex protein unit IV of the mitochondrial transport chain, responsible for the synthesis of adenosine triphosphate. Adenosine triphosphate, or ATP, is a key molecule in cellular energy. This interaction enhances cellular activity, oxygen consumption, gene expression, growth factors, and cell proliferation.

This was particularly demonstrated in a study in vitro conducted by PARSA and his team in 2021. Human fibroblasts were daily irradiated with a combination of red LED lights (640 nm) and near IR (830 nm) at 0.5 mW/cm2 for 10 minutes (0.3 J/cm2). After three days, the researchers observed a significant increase in the expression of the ELN, COL1A1, and COL3A1 genes, which respectively code for elastin, type I collagen, and type III collagen, as well as the synthesis of type I procollagen and elastin proteins. ATP production also increased.

By stimulating the production of collagen and elastin and enhancing cellular regeneration, the infrared light establishes itself as a non-invasive solution to improve skin firmness.

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Infrared light and wrinkles: what is the clinical evidence?

While red light cannot erase wrinkles per se, it can reduce their visibility and help the skin regain suppleness and elasticity. Studies on this topic have multiplied in recent years, in parallel with the rise of home-use LED masks. Some of these are presented in the table below.

StudyLight ParametersProtocolResults
LEE et al. (2006)Near-Infrared Red Light (λ=900 nm and I=35 mW/cm2)Daily exposure of 20 volunteers for 6 months for 15 minutes75% of participants reported an improvement in their skin texture
MATUSCHKA & al. (2014)Near-infrared red light (λ=570–850 nm and I=23.4 mW/cm2)Exposure of 57 volunteers twice a week for 6 months, each session lasting 30 minutes69% of participants reported a reduction in their wrinkles
SIRITHANABADEEKUL & al. (2023)Red light (λ=633 nm and I=32.64 mW/cm2)Exposure of 20 volunteers twice a week for 6 weeks for 12 minutes each sessionAverage reduction of 9.38% in neck wrinkles
GRANOTIER & al. (2023)Red light (λ=630 nm and I=21.7 mW/cm2)Exposure of 20 volunteers twice a week for 3 months for 12 minutes each sessionAverage reduction of 38.3% in crow's feet wrinkles
The benefits of red or infrared light for reducing wrinkles (λ = wavelength and I = irradiance).
Effets de la lumière rouge (λ = 630 nm et I = 21,7 mW/cm2) sur les rides pattes d'oie.
Effects of red light (λ = 630 nm and I = 21.7 mW/cm2) on crow's feet wrinkles.
Source: GRANOTIER F. & al. Reversing signs of skin aging through red light photobiomodulation. Skin Research and Technology (2023).

While the red or infrared light is beneficial for reducing wrinkles, it's crucial to consider certain usage precautions.

Indeed, to safely benefit from infrared phototherapy, it is crucial to always follow the manufacturer's instructions, particularly regarding exposure time and frequency of use. Additionally, it's important to note that these devices are not suitable for everyone and should not be used by pregnant or breastfeeding women, as a precautionary measure, nor by individuals undergoing photosensitizing treatment, those with coagulation disorders, skin cancer, or suffering from an active inflammatory skin disease.

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