Recipes for moisturizing creams, lip balms, and homemade serums appear on social media and in magazines. Sunscreen, criticized for its environmental footprint and formulation, is no exception. But can we formulate skincare at home that provides effective sun protection? Find the answer in this article.
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Homemade sunscreen: a genuine environmentally responsible alternative without health risk?
Summary
Published July 1, 2025,
updated on July 1, 2025,
by
Pauline, Chemical Engineer
—
5 min read
Homemade sunscreen: a reliable and risk-free alternative?
Following the general interest in natural products and homemade, more people turn to homemade sunscreens. Concerned about controversial ingredients in conventional sunscreens, they aim to avoid certain chemical filters, such as the benzyl salicylate, homosalate or octocrylene, suspected of being harmful to human health and the environment. Ecological appeal is central to this trend: making one’s own sunscreen seems more respectful of the environment because it avoids filters toxic to marine ecosystems and reduces packaging. Many Do It Yourself (DIY) blogs and social media posts help popularize these homemade sunscreen recipes by highlighting their natural character, low cost, and ease of preparation.
Most DIY sunscreen recipes are based on vegetable oils credited with photoprotective properties. Although some absorb UVA and UVB rays, this absorption is not sufficient to provide adequate protection, as shown in the table below, listing the SPF values of some vegetable oils measured in a 2016 in vitro study. A sunscreen is considered low protection at SPF 4 or above, medium at SPF 15, and high to very high above SPF 30.
| Plant oil | INCI name | SPF value determined in vitro |
|---|---|---|
| Olive oil | Olea Europaea Fruit Oil | |
| Coconut oil | Coconut oil | 7,119 |
| Castor oil | Castor Seed Oil (Ricinus Communis) | 5,687 |
| Sweet almond oil | Sweet almond oil | 4,659 |
| Sesame oil | Sesame seed oil | 1,771 |
SPF ratings of some plant oils.
Source: CHAUHAN A. et al. UV-blocking potential of oils and juices. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2016).
The overall SPF of a homemade sunscreen is not determined by summing the SPF values of its ingredients.
It is easy to assume that adding olive oil, coconut oil, and castor oil to a formula will yield an SPF above 20. This is not accurate. Sun protection depends not only on ingredient quality but also on the quantity of each component, the ratio among active filters, and their stability over time. These parameters are essential to ensure uniform and effective coverage across the skin surface. Moreover, some homemade sunscreen recipes involve mineral filters, notably zinc oxide, a raw material that is quite easy to obtain. Zinc oxide acts as an effective UV filter only when used at a specific concentration and correctly dispersed in the cosmetic formulation, a parameter that only formulators can guarantee.
Users of conventional sunscreens can be confident that these criteria are met because the products are subjected to strict testing before entering the market using laboratory assays and in vivo studies that assess the product’s true UV protection, water resistance, photostability, and performance under varied conditions. These tests are not conducted on homemade sunscreens. Their SPF is unpredictable and lower than assumed. Despite their appeal and environmental benefit, homemade sunscreens cannot provide adequate UV protection.
Dermatologists and public health agencies recommend against making your own sunscreen. Sun protection should not be taken lightly: according to Santé publique France, more than 85 percent of skin cancers are directly linked to excessive UV exposure. Using an effective sunscreen is not a trend, but a key way to preserve skin health.
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Sources
CHAUHAN A. & al. UV-blocking potential of oils and juices. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2016).
MERTEN J. W. & al. Pinterest homemade sunscreens: a recipe for sunburn. Health Communication (2019).
KANELLIS V. G. & al. Sharing recipes and creating potentially dangerous homemade sunscreens. Australasian Journal of Dermatology (2020).
LIDAN X. & al. Natural components in sunscreens: Topical formulations with sun protection factor (SPF). Biomedicine & Pharmacotherapy (2021).
ALMEIDA I. F. & al. UV filters: challenges and prospects. Pharmaceuticals (2022).
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