Which sunscreens are excluded by Typology?

At Typology, in accordance with our formulation charter, we always ensure to respect two factors when choosing the ingredients for our formulas: their impact on health and the environment.

Therefore, our list of prohibited ingredients, the "Ban List", is currently one of the strictest on the market. We strive to exclude from our formulas many ingredients that may pose a risk to human health or the environment. This applies to active ingredients, solvents, preservatives, surfactants, and UV filters. As of now, 28 sunscreen filters are authorized by European Regulation No. 1223/2009 governing the use of cosmetics. However, as a precautionary measure for our consumers and the environment, we exclude some from our formulations:

• The benzophenone-1 (INCI: Benzophenone-1) : Benzophenone-1 is a sun filter primarily found in nail polish that protects against UVA rays. It is suspected to act as an endocrine disruptor and poses a risk of causing allergies and irritation. Furthermore, benzophenone-1 is suspected to be toxic to aquatic environments.

• The benzophenone-2 (INCI: Benzophenone-2) : Benzophenone-2 is a broad-spectrum sunscreen that is seldom used due to suspicions of it disrupting the endocrine system and causing irritations and allergic reactions. This UV filter also has suspected aquatic ecotoxicity.

• The benzophenone-3 (INCI: Benzophenone-3) : Benzophenone-3, also known as oxybenzone, is a sunscreen filter that is permitted for use in cosmetics up to 6% in the European Union and the United States. However, it is suspected to be an endocrine disruptor and potentially carcinogenic, and studies have shown that it can be an irritant and a photo-allergen. Benzophenone-3 also poses a risk to the environment, specifically to aquatic ecosystems.

• The benzophenone-4 (INCI: Benzophenone-4) : Benzophenone-4 is a sun filter that protects against UVA and UVB rays. It is authorized for use up to 5% in Europe and 10% in the United States. However, it carries the same risks as benzophenone-1 and benzophenone-2.

• The benzophenone-5 (INCI: Benzophenone-5) : While authorized in the European Union, benzophenone-5 is not approved in the United States. This sun filter is suspected of acting as an endocrine disruptor. Additionally, it is a potential allergen and irritant.

• The benzyl salicylate (INCI: Benzyl Salicylate) : This UV filter is among the 80 allergens identified by the Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety (SCCS) and listed in the European Regulation. In addition to its allergenic nature, it is suspected of disrupting the hormonal system.

• The butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (INCI: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane) : Also known as avobenzone, this UVA sunscreen filter is permitted up to 5% in Europe compared to 3% in the United States. However, it poses several potential health (suspected endocrine disruptor, suspected skin penetration, toxic to the body) and environmental issues (potential aquatic ecotoxicity, potential PBT (Persistent, Bioaccumulative, and Toxic)).

• The camphor benzalkonium methosulfate (INCI: Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate) : This is a sunscreen filter authorized up to 5% in the European Union but prohibited in the United States. It does not present presumably any risks to the environment but is a potential skin irritant.

• Th ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA (INCI: Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA) : Padimate-O, or Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA, is a UVB sunscreen filter permitted up to 8% in Europe and the United States. We do not use it in our formulations because it is suspected to be an endocrine disruptor, mutagenic, carcinogenic, allergenic, and irritating.

• The ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) : Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, also known as octinoxate, is a UVB sunscreen filter approved up to 10% in the European Union and 7.5% in the United States. In addition to potentially destabilizing aquatic environments, it is suspected of acting as an endocrine disruptor and being capable of penetrating the skin barrier.

• The ethylhexyl salicylate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Salicylate) : Authorized up to 5% in Europe and the United States, this UVB sunscreen filter is a potential endocrine disruptor and irritant and is suspected to be toxic to aquatic environments.

• The homosalate (INCI: Homosalate) : Homosalate is a UVB sunscreen filter, its use is limited to 15% in skincare products in Europe and 7.34% in the United States. In addition to being an atmospheric pollutant and toxic to aquatic environments, it is suspected of acting as an endocrine disruptor and a mutagen, and it may be able to penetrate the skin barrier.

• The amiloxate (INCI: Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate) : Permitted up to 10% in the European Union but banned in the United States, Amiloxate is a UVB sunscreen filter that is suspected of acting as an endocrine disruptor and being toxic to aquatic environments.

• The 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (INCI: 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor) : The 4-methylbenzylidene camphor is a UVB sunscreen filter permitted up to 4% in European skincare products. We exclude it from our formulas because it is suspected to be an endocrine disruptor, potentially genotoxic, and able to penetrate the skin barrier.

• The methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (INCI: Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol) : Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol is a sunscreen filter suspected of acting as an endocrine disruptor and being an allergen and an irritant. Moreover, this substance is bioaccumulative, non-biodegradable, and exhibits aquatic ecotoxicity.

• The octocrylene (INCI: Octocrylene) : Octocrylene is a UVB sunscreen filter authorized up to 10% in the European Union and the United States. However, it is a persistent molecule, bioaccumulative, and not easily biodegradable, and an atmospheric pollutant. Moreover, octocrylene is a suspected endocrine disruptor, a suspected carcinogen, a suspected mutagen, and a potential allergen that may be able to cross the skin barrier.

• The polysilicone-15 (INCI: Polysilicone-15) : Prohibited in the United States but present in up to 10% of European sunscreens, polysilicone-15 is a potential UVB sunscreen filter that may penetrate the skin and has aquatic ecotoxicity.

At Typology, we also exclude sunscreens in the form of nanoparticles, as a precautionary measure. Indeed, some studies suggest that these particles could penetrate the skin barrier and accumulate in the body. Furthermore, other research has highlighted their potential toxicity to phytoplankton, organisms at the base of the aquatic food chain.

Refer to the table below for a list of UV filters that we have chosen not to use at Typology.

• Règlement (CE) n°1223/2009 du Parlement Européen et du Conseil.

• U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Over-the-Counter Monograph M020: Sunscreen Drug Products for Over-the-Counter Human Use (2021).

• PADOIS K. & al. Commonly used UV filter toxicity on biological functions: review of last decade studies. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2012).

• SCHWACK W. & al. Photoprotection in changing times – UV filter efficacy and safety, sensitization processes and regulatory aspects. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014).

• LEUNG K. S.-Y. & al. Risks of organic UV filters: a review of environmental and human health concern studies. Science of The Total Environment (2021).

• ALMEIDA I. F. & al. UV Filters: Challenges and Prospects. Pharmaceuticals (2022).