Is hyaluronic acid suitable for sensitive skin?

Sensitive skin is a condition that can affect all skin types, although it is more commonly found in dry skin. According to recent studies, the rate of corneocytes is reduced in people with sensitive skin. These cells, which make up the horny layer, play a crucial protective role and prevent irritating agents from entering the deeper layers of the skin. Furthermore, it has been observed that the synthesis of filaggrin, a protein of the epithelium involved in maintaining the skin barrier, is weaker in people with sensitive skin. Therefore, sensitive skin is more permeable to various environmental factors that can harm it, which explains the frequent irritations and redness it undergoes.

Because they are hyperreactive, sensitive skin types must pay close attention to the products they use. When it comes to hyaluronic acid, it is not a substance that is contraindicated for sensitive skin. Indeed, this biocompatible molecule, naturally present in the dermis and epidermis, is very well tolerated by all skin types, including sensitive skin. This is true for both high molecular weight and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid. Even though the small size of the latter allows it to penetrate deeply into the epidermis, it does not promote irritation phenomena. A recent study conducted with patch-tests on 15 volunteers examined different serums containing 0.5, 1, and 2% of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (400 kDa). Their application on the participants' forearms caused no redness or side effects after 30 minutes, 72 hours, 96 hours, and 1 week.

Furthermore, another study involving 1630 individuals examined the effects of a serum containing 0.4% hyaluronic acid. Among the many participants, 1094 (67.7%) had sensitive skin. After 4 weeks of daily use, no adverse effects were observed, which seems to indicate good tolerability of hyaluronic acid by sensitive skin. Moreover, all participants noticed an overall improvement in the condition of their skin after the study. The hyaluronic acid indeed helped to increase skin hydration in 74.1% of individuals and soothe the skin of 93% of them.

Key Takeaway : Far from being contraindicated for people with sensitive skin, hyaluronic acid is not only well tolerated by this group but can also provide them with numerous benefits. Sensitive skin is indeed often prone to skin dryness, a factor on which hyaluronic acid can act. By minimizing water loss, this active ingredient has a protective action and strengthens the skin barrier.

• MAIBACH H. & al. Sensitive skin: an overview. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2012).

• STANDER S. & et al. Sensitive skin. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (2016).

• ARAVIISKAIA E. & al. Vichy mineralizing water with hyaluronic acid proves to be effective and well-tolerated as a supplementary treatment for various skin conditions and post-aesthetic procedures. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2019).

• TORT S. & KARAKUCUK A. Serum Type Hyaluronic Acid Formulations: In vitro Characterization and Patch Test Study. Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences (2021).