Naturally found in certain grains such as barley, azelaic acid is classified among the dicarboxylic acids. It is used in medicinal treatments for acne, applied topically, typically at concentrations between 15 and 20%. In skincare products, creams and serums rarely contain more than 10%. However, even at this concentration, its anti-blemish activity and mattifying power are effective.
Oily Skin (+): How to Mattify it Using Azelaic Acid?
Summary
Published on August 10, 2022, updated on December 16, 2025, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 4 min of reading
Themes:
What do we refer to as "shine zones"?
The sebaceous glands are responsible for the production of sebum. They are attached to the root of most hairs. Over-stimulation of these glands causes an excess of sebum (particularly during adolescence but also in adulthood), which is responsible for skin shininess.
Some areas are shinier than others. This depends solely on the number of pilosebaceous follicles that open to the surface of the area. On the face, this number varies between 400 and 900 per cm3. The region richest in sebaceous glands and therefore in sebum is the T-zone (chin, nose, forehead). Therefore, it is logical that this area concentrates a majority of the shine-related issues.
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How does azelaic acid mattify oily skin?
Azelaic acid is particularly suitable for combination to oily skin types. The overproduction of sebum, a characteristic of oily skin, leads to the onset of acne that can leave marks. As a natural antibacterial, azelaic acid helps to limit the bacteria responsible for inflammation.
Regarding the mattifying action of azelaic acid, studies contradict each other. Some researchers have demonstrated that it does not change its composition or quantity, but rather acts by fractionating free fatty acids on the skin's surface, hence its mattifying effect. The skin shines less, appears less oily, and the complexion is unified and matte throughout the day. Other studies have suggested thatazelaic acid reduces the level of sebum due to its ability to inhibit 5α-reductase, an enzyme that locally converts testosterone into 5-dihydrotestosterone.
To reap the benefits of this acid, ensure you choose natural origin products, with a concentration of at least 10% azelaic acid, and complement your routine with various treatments dedicated to shiny skin and prone to imperfections.
How to use azelaic acid?
In cosmetic application, a skincare treatment with azelaic acid can be applied daily,morning and evening. The dosage depends on your skin type and its needs. After a treatment with azelaic acid, to counteract its potential dehydrating effect, apply a moisturizing cream suitable for your skin type. We recommend using our azelaic acid serum for at least 4 weeks to see its effects.
Sources
GOA K. L. & others. Azelaic acid, a review of its pharmacological properties and therapeutic efficacy in acne and hyperpigmentary skin disorders. Drugs (1991).
BUI T. P. & al. Azelaic Acid: Pharmacokinetic and Pharmacodynamic Properties and Its Therapeutic Role in Hyperpigmentary Disorders and Acne. International Journal of Dermatology (1995).
ZOUBOULIS C. C. Acne and sebaceous gland function. Clinics in Dermatology (2004).
PARONE P. & al. Randomized controlled trial, relationship between sebostatic activity, tolerability and efficacy of three topical drugs to treat mild to moderate acne. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (2007).
The multiple roles of azelaic acid. Cosmetics Business (2016).
