The physical exfoliants, or mechanical scrubs, rely on manual friction to remove dead skin cells. This process, although sometimes effective in smoothing the skin, can become problematic when applied to already weakened skin, particularly by acne. By exerting an abrasive action, these scrubs can irritate the epidermis, cause microlesions, and exacerbate preexisting inflammation. If the particles are large or have irregular edges, the risk of damaging the skin barrier is even higher.
Particle size plays a central role: micro-grains can be well tolerated by oily skin.
On the other hand, larger particles may become problematic in the presence of acne lesions. When they pass over an inflamed or healing pimple, they may rupture the pustule wall, promoting the spread of bacterial contents, particularly of Cutibacterium acnes, to adjacent areas. This phenomenon increases the risk of new lesion formation and prolongs inflammation. Scrubs with particle sizes that should be monitored include:
Fruit kernels: apricot kernels (Prunus Armeniaca Seed Powder), peach kernels (Prunus Persica Seed Powder), plum kernels (Prunus Domestica Seed Powder), walnut shells (Juglans Regia Shell Powder) or hazelnut shells (Corylus Avellana Shell Powder).
Abrasive synthetic particles : polyethylene microbeads (Polyethylene), polypropylene (Polypropylene) or certain PEG/PPG-type polymers (Polyethylene Glycol, Polypropylene Glycol), increasingly less used today but still present in some products.
Very hard exfoliating crystals : raw brown sugar (Sucrose), unrefined coarse sea salt (Sea Salt).
For oily, blemish-prone skin, it is best to use chemical exfoliants, which act without direct abrasion. Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), particularly salicylic acid, are the most suitable. Lipid-soluble, it penetrates into pores and dissolves the sebum and keratin build-up that leads to comedones. Moreover, beyond its keratolytic activity, salicylic acid exhibits antibacterial effects on Cutibacterium acnes. This active compound can therefore be considered a valuable ally for oily skin.