Are products that slow down hair regrowth really effective?

It is always frustrating to see hair reappear just a few days after a waxing session, which explains the growing interest in hair regrowth‑inhibiting products, whether they are creams, lotions, serums designed to slow hair regrowth, or oils with anti-regrowth properties. These treatments, promoted as solutions capable of slowing hair growth, are theoretically based on a modulation of the hair cycle, more specifically on a prolongation of the telogen phase, or resting phase, or on a slowdown of the anagen phase, which corresponds to the active hair growth phase.

Some claims also put forward an effect on the very structure of the hair, in particular through an alteration of keratin synthesis, the main fibrous protein in hair produced by the keratinocytes of the hair follicle, which could lead to thinner, less pigmented, and potentially less visible hairs over successive cycles. Other hypotheses suggest an interaction with signaling pathways involved in the proliferation of matrix cells in the hair bulb, but these mechanisms remain largely speculative.

Despite a rapidly expanding market for hair regrowth-inhibiting products, scientific data remain limited.

Can wax tree extract slow down hair regrowth?

Often cited in hair regrowth-inhibiting care formulas, wax tree extract—more precisely, the insect wax secreted by Ericerus pela—is actually far from having demonstrated any inhibitory effect on hair growth. On the contrary, the available scientific data instead suggest a stimulatory effect on the hair follicle. In fact, some experimental studies show that topical application of this wax promotes the transition of the follicle from the telogen phase to the anagen phase. This stimulation is reportedly associated with an increase in the expression of the growth factor VEGF, thereby improving the supply of nutrients and oxygen needed for hair growth.

These observations were confirmed by an in vivo study conducted in mice, in which different concentrations of insect wax (30% and 45%) were applied to depilated skin areas, with comparison to a 5% minoxidil–based positive control, a drug used to treat alopecia. As early as day 16, visible hair regrowth was observed in the treated groups, unlike in the control group. Hair lengths measured in the 30% and 45% groups were significantly greater than those in the control group on days 16 and 20, with performance close to that of minoxidil. Histological analysis showed that this effect did not rely on the formation of new follicles, but rather on a premature conversion of existing follicles from the telogen phase to the anagen phase, as well as an extension of this growth phase. This activity is thought to be related in particular to increased expression of VEGF and to the presence of policosanols in the wax, identified as major active compounds.

Far from slowing hair regrowth, it would actually appear that wax tree extract accelerates it.

Scullcap root to prevent hair regrowth?

Often found in hair growth–inhibiting products, Scutellaria root actually appears, in light of scientific data, to act more as an active ingredient that stimulates hair growth. Various species, in particular Nothopanax scutellarium (mangkokan) and Scutellaria alpina, contain flavonoids such as quercetin, which are capable of inhibiting 5α-reductase and thereby reducing the production of dihydrotestosterone (DHT), a hormone involved in the miniaturization of hair follicles. At the same time, these extracts promote the expression of several key growth factors, such as IGF-1, VEGF, and KGF, which support proliferation of hair bulb cells and prolong the anagen phase. Studies conducted on Polyscias scutellaria even suggest effects comparable to those of minoxidil, via mechanisms that combine antioxidant activity, reduction of inflammation, and follicular stimulation. To date, no data show that Scutellaria root can slow hair regrowth.

On the contrary, skullcap root appears to promote an environment conducive to their growth, which calls into question its relevance in products marketed as inhibiting hair regrowth.

Tiger nut oil, an oil that prevents hair regrowth?

Unlike other ingredients that are often promoted as inhibiting hair regrowth without solid evidence, tigernut oil, extracted from the tubers of Cyperus rotundus, may be relevant for slowing hair regrowth. Although its mechanism of action is still poorly understood, several hypotheses have been proposed. One of them is based on a possible inhibition of hair follicle stem cells, which are essential for hair regeneration after epilation. By slowing their activation, the oil could lengthen the intervals between growth cycles. Other ideas suggest that it may induce apoptosis, the process of programmed cell death, leading to reduced follicular activity.

From a clinical perspective, a study conducted with 91 volunteers presenting unwanted axillary hair yielded particularly interesting results. The participants were divided into two groups: 47 applied tiger nut oil twice daily for six months, while 44 used a placebo solution. Both groups continued regular hair removal every three weeks. One month after the final hair removal session, the evaluation was based on three criteria: hair counting, assessment by an independent observer, and self-assessment by the participants. Very good results were obtained.

Moreover, the independent observer also noted a decrease of more than 60% in hair count in 97.9% of participants who used tigernut oil, with no improvement in the control group. Finally, a significant reduction in the number of hairs was objectively demonstrated in the group applying the oil.

Although certain methodological parameters are not specified, such as the concentration at which tigernut oil was used, these results suggest that this oil, which slows hair regrowth, could represent an interesting avenue, particularly for post-epilation application.

Lemon juice: a good idea for spacing out hair removal sessions?

Lemon juice is often presented as a homemade solution to slow hair regrowth. However, no robust scientific data support any effect of lemon on the hair growth cycle. Its acidity, due to its high citric acid content (pH around 2), can cause a slight alteration of the stratum corneum and create a feeling of smoother skin or temporarily finer hair, but this does not reflect any real action on the hair follicle or on the biological mechanisms involved in regrowth.

Moreover, its repeated use on the skin, particularly after hair removal, is not without consequences.

The acidity of lemon can weaken the skin barrier, which is already sensitized, leading to irritation, redness, and even burning sensations. Most importantly, lemon contains furocoumarins, photosensitizing compounds that can react with UV light and cause phytophotodermatoses: the appearance of pigmented spots, burns, or inflammatory reactions after sun exposure. This risk is particularly high when the juice is applied to recently waxed or shaved skin, which is more permeable. Therefore, despite its popularity, lemon juice is not a reliable or safe option for slowing hair regrowth, and we advise against applying it to your skin.

Thus, most hair regrowth-inhibiting products rely more on marketing claims than on solid scientific evidence. Only a few options, such as tiger nut oil, show promising potential, but they still require more extensive research.

• MOHAMMED G. F. Role of Cyperus rotundus oil in decreasing hair growth. Journal of Intercultural Ethnopharmacology (2012).

• ZHANG H. & al. In vivo evaluation of insect wax for hair growth potential. PLOS One (2018).

• MOHAMMED G. F. & al. The potential of Cyperus rotundus L. as a natural hair removal agent: A review of traditional and modern applications. Dermatological Reviews (2025).

• ABU BAKAR F. I. & al. Nothopanax scutellarium: Natural hair growth plant. Jurnal Farmasi Indonesia (2025).