Rosacea: can bakuchiol mitigate redness?

The rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin disease marked by diffuse redness of the face. It is an evolving dermatosis with flare-up periods. The causes of this condition are numerous and include genetics, high temperatures, stress... At first, the rosacea often manifests as dilation of the facial blood vessels, namely telangiectasia, often accompanied by tingling and hot flashes. It is important to manage rosacea from its onset because it can progress to more severe forms (ocular rosacea, rhinophyma...). If it is not yet possible to cure the rosacea, there are solutions to alleviate facial redness and improve patients' quality of life.

The management of mild rosacea generally involves the application of creams containing vasoconstrictive agents, such as brimonidine, anti-inflammatory agents, such asazelaic acid, and antiparasitic agents, such as metronidazole.

Regarding the effect of bakuchiol on rosacea, it has been little studied. However, a pilot study conducted by DRAELOS offers interesting insights. This research evaluated the tolerability of a formulation containing 1% bakuchiol in a group of 60 subjects—20 with rosacea, 20 with eczema, and 20 with reactive skin. For four weeks, participants applied the product daily, while several skin parameters were assessed using a scale from 0 (none) to 4 (severe). The evaluation criteria included visual and tactile smoothness, skin tone clarity, radiance, overall skin appearance, and signs of photoaging. Potential adverse effects, such as flaking, dryness, or sensations of burning or itching, were also recorded on the same scale. Instrumental measurements complemented this clinical evaluation: transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured with an evaporimeter, and skin hydration was assessed by corneometry.

Among participants with rosacea, no adverse reactions were observed throughout the study. Furthermore, TEWL values remained stable from the beginning to the end of the study, indicating no disruption of the skin barrier—an essential and challenging aspect for sensitive skin. Finally, corneometry measurements revealed a statistically significant 16% increase in hydration. While this rise may appear modest, the researchers considered it noteworthy given the participants’ high skin sensitivity. In addition, all the assessed parameters (complexion radiance, photoaging, etc.) improved, as shown in the graph below. However, it is regrettable that the erythema, the persistent redness characteristic of rosacea, was not measured, despite being one of the key criteria for evaluating the efficacy of a treatment intended for rosacea-prone skin.