Bakuchiol, a beneficial active for rosacea?

Can bakuchiol have an effect on rosacea?

The rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin disease marked by diffuse redness of the face. It is an evolving dermatosis with flare-up periods. The causes of this condition are numerous and include genetics, high temperatures, stress... At first, the rosacea often manifests as dilation of the facial blood vessels, namely telangiectasia, often accompanied by tingling and hot flashes. It is important to manage rosacea from its onset because it can progress to more severe forms (ocular rosacea, rhinophyma...). If it is not yet possible to cure the rosacea, there are solutions to alleviate facial redness and improve patients' quality of life.

The management of mild rosacea generally involves the application of creams containing vasoconstrictive agents, such as brimonidine, anti-inflammatory agents, such asazelaic acid, and antiparasitic agents, such as metronidazole.

Regarding the effect of bakuchiol on rosacea, it has been little studied. However, a pilot study conducted by DRAELOS offers interesting insights. This research evaluated the tolerability of a formulation containing 1% bakuchiol in a group of 60 subjects—20 with rosacea, 20 with eczema, and 20 with reactive skin. For four weeks, participants applied the product daily, while several skin parameters were assessed using a scale from 0 (none) to 4 (severe). The evaluation criteria included visual and tactile smoothness, skin tone clarity, radiance, overall skin appearance, and signs of photoaging. Potential adverse effects, such as flaking, dryness, or sensations of burning or itching, were also recorded on the same scale. Instrumental measurements complemented this clinical evaluation: transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured with an evaporimeter, and skin hydration was assessed by corneometry.

Among participants with rosacea, no adverse reactions were observed throughout the study. Furthermore, TEWL values remained stable from the beginning to the end of the study, indicating no disruption of the skin barrier—an essential and challenging aspect for sensitive skin. Finally, corneometry measurements revealed a statistically significant 16% increase in hydration. While this rise may appear modest, the researchers considered it noteworthy given the participants’ high skin sensitivity. In addition, all the assessed parameters (complexion radiance, photoaging, etc.) improved, as shown in the graph below. However, it is regrettable that the erythema, the persistent redness characteristic of rosacea, was not measured, despite being one of the key criteria for evaluating the efficacy of a treatment intended for rosacea-prone skin.

Effets du bakuchiol sur un panel de peaux sensibles (1/3 eczéma, 1/3 rosacée, 1/3 peaux réactives). — Effects of bakuchiol on a panel of sensitive skin types (1/3 eczema, 1/3 rosacea, 1/3 reactive skin).
Source: Draelos ZD, et al. Clinical Evaluation of a Nature-Based Bakuchiol Anti-Aging Moisturizer for Sensitive Skin. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2020).

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Although the bakuchiol is generally well tolerated by rosacea-prone skin, no evidence to date demonstrates that it reduces the characteristic redness of this dermatosis.

We can nevertheless assume that the anti-inflammatory properties of bakuchiol could allow it to soothe rosacea flare-ups and thus reduce the visibility of redness. Indeed, several studies in vitro have shown that bakuchiol can modulate the production of pro-inflammatory mediators. Research conducted on mouse macrophages stimulated with interferon-γ revealed a significant reduction in the expression of inducible nitric oxide synthase in the presence of bakuchiol. This enzyme functions to activate macrophages in an inflammatory context. Bakuchiol’s effect is thought to result in part from its ability to inhibit the nuclear transcription factor NF-κB, a key regulator of the immune response. When NF-κB is activated, it triggers the production of several pro-inflammatory cytokines, including interleukin-6, which is overexpressed in rosacea-prone skin. Bakuchiol could thus limit the severity of rosacea flare-ups.

However, even though bakuchiol demonstrates potentially promising anti-inflammatory properties against rosacea, nothing indicates that it can act on vasodilation or on parasites Demodex, two elements in the pathogenesis of this condition. In cases of rosacea, it is essential to consult a dermatologist in order to receive appropriate management and prevent the disease from worsening.

Essential points to remember.

To date, no study has evaluated the effect of bakuchiol on redness.
The anti-inflammatory properties of bakuchiol could, however, help mitigate the inflammatory flare-ups of rosacea.
Bakuchiol, however, does not seem to act on vasodilation or on the parasites Demodex, which are present in high concentrations on rosacea-prone skin.
A clinical study demonstrated a lack of side effects following the use of a 1% bakuchiol topical formulation in 20 patients with rosacea.
If you suffer from rosacea, we recommend that you consult a dermatologist to receive appropriate treatment.