What are the risks associated with bakuchiol?

The bakuchiol is a plant-derived compound extracted from the seeds and leaves of Psoralea corylifolia, a plant used for centuries in traditional Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine. Although presented as a natural alternative to retinol, the bakuchiol does not share the same chemical structure. It exhibits similar properties when applied topically.

The bakuchiol is capable of stimulating gene expression linked to collagen and elastin production, thus helping to improve skin firmness and elasticity. It also inhibits enzymes that degrade the extracellular matrix, such as collagenase and elastase. It has antioxidant properties and helps reduce the appearance of brown spots. The bakuchiol is also beneficial for oily or acne-prone skin, with several clinical studies demonstrating its ability to reduce blemishes. Finally, this active ingredient has anti-inflammatory properties that soothe redness.

Bakuchiol is considered a well-tolerated active ingredient for topical use.

Unlike retinoids to which it is often compared and which can cause irritation, scaling, and redness, bakuchiol is rarely linked to adverse effects. A clinical study with 60 women aged 40 to 65 demonstrated this level of tolerance. The volunteer panel comprised 20 individuals with eczema, 20 with rosacea, and 20 reporting frequent reactions to skin care products. Participants used a 1% bakuchiol-containing cleanser and moisturizer daily for four weeks.

At the end of the study, a significant improvement in skin appearance was observed, along with a 16% increase in skin hydration measured by corneometry. A key finding: bakuchiol treatments were overall well tolerated. Only two participants with eczema reported mild transient warming sensations upon application.

Although bakuchiol is generally well tolerated, remember that zero risk does not exist. Very rare allergic reactions have been reported in the scientific literature. For example, one case describes a 23-year-old woman with seasonal rhinoconjunctivitis who developed contact dermatitis on her face, with red, swollen patches on her eyelids after applying a 1% eye contour cream containing bakuchiol. Patch tests were performed on her back to identify the active ingredient but all results were negative. Repeated application tests, applying the ingredient twice daily to the skin, were conducted. 1% bakuchiol triggered a positive reaction and redness. To determine if this reaction was isolated, five other individuals were tested with 1% bakuchiol and none reacted.

The allergic reactions to bakuchiol are possible, although they remain rare. It highlights the need to test a new product first on a small skin area before applying it to the entire face or body.

No contraindications exist for using bakuchiol in skincare.

As noted above, this ingredient is considered well tolerated, even by sensitive skin or skin prone to redness. In addition, bakuchiol is not listed among ingredients that are not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding, unlike retinol to which it’s often compared. Another advantage of bakuchiol is that it is not photosensitizing. Unlike certain exfoliating agents or vitamin A derivatives, it does not increase the skin’s sensitivity to UV rays. It can be applied morning and evening. This does not negate the importance of daily sun protection. Although bakuchiol does not increase sun sensitivity, we recommend using a sunscreen to guard against photoaging and the cellular damage caused by UV exposure.

• MARCHIO F. & al. Bakuchiol in the management of acne-affected skin. Cosmetics & Toiletries (2011).

• RAISON-PEYRON N. & al. A new case of contact dermatitis to bakuchiol in a cosmetic cream. Contact Dermatitis (2019).

• SIVAMANI R. K. & al. Prospective, randomized, double‐blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology (2019).

• DRAELOS Z. D. & al. Clinical evaluation of a nature-based bakuchiol anti-aging moisturizer for sensitive skin. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2020).