Rosacea-prone skin: ingredients to avoid.

Rosacea is a very common chronic dermatological disease. In France, it affects 4 million people, predominantly women.

This disease affects the small vessels of the face. It can present in 4 different forms : vascular (rosacea), ocular, papulopustular, or hypertrophic. The presence of redness on the face, due to an exaggerated reaction of the blood vessels, is the common point among the 4 forms, but other symptoms such as rosacea acne can also appear.

Note : Rosacea and redness are often confused due to the common presence of redness on the face. However, these conditions are completely different.

Various factors contribute to the onset of rosacea: the genetics, the dysregulation of the immune system related to the skin, the excessive presence of skin mites (Demodex folliculorum and Demodex brevis) and of certain bacteria, an abnormality in the functioning of blood vessels or even the dysfunction of the Meibomian glands which are located at the edge of the eyelids in the case of ocular rosacea.

As previously mentioned, the couperose is the most common form of rosacea.

Rosacea is characterized by temporary redness (erythema) or permanent redness (erythrosis) associated with the development on the skin surface of small blood vessels that are thin, red or purple, and individualized, becoming visible to the naked eye (telangiectasias). These rednesses are located in the center of the face (forehead-eyes-nose-cheeks-chin).

This condition is also accompanied by repeated sensations of heat (hot flashes), and the skin may have a dry appearance with flaking. Rosacea results from excessive dilation of the blood vessels in the face. This skin disease frequently affects people with fair complexions with eyes and light hair.

Rosacea-prone skin is sensitive and tends to be dry. This skin sensitivity is due to a high number of nerve endings in the deeper layers of the skin and the presence of a substance called "substance P" which is found locally and in the blood, leading to local inflammation. Therefore, special attention should be given to the choice of cosmetic products.

These should have the simplest and most minimalist formulation possible. Choose skincare products without alcohol and without fragrance, as they are very irritating to the skin.

Furthermore, certain active ingredients must be avoided such as:

• Retinol :

Derived from Vitamin A, retinol is a highly effective ingredient for combating oxidative stress and accelerated skin aging. However, the most common side effect following the use of a retinol-based skincare product is an irritated skin characterized by the onset of redness, itching, and even slight burning. This is why this active ingredient is not recommended for sensitive skin.

All cosmetics or topicals (prescription-based) containing retinoids are not recommended for skin exhibiting rosacea.

• Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (A.H.A.):

A.H.A.s are potent keratolytic agents that offer numerous benefits for the skin. This family encompasses various molecules such as theglycolic acid, mandelic acid, or even tartaric acid.

Despite their numerous benefits, A.H.A.s can be irritating just like retinol. Therefore, they should be avoided in case of rosacea.

Note : for exfoliating your skin, consider turning to poly-hydroxy acids (P.H.A.). Contrary to A.H.A., P.H.A. are gentle exfoliants. With a larger molecular size than A.H.A., P.H.A. penetrate less deeply into the epidermis and are more suitable for atopic, sensitive and/or skin with conditions. Moreover, P.H.A. are alsohydrating: they capture and retain water in the epidermis andreduceskin dryness by half.

When it comes to makeup, opt for light textures and non-comedogenic formulas that do not clog the skin's pores.

• NAVARINI A.A. & al, Swiss S1 guideline for the treatment of rosacea (2017)