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Self-tanner to color hair?

The self-tanner produces a tan without sun exposure. Could it tint hair? Before testing, we need to understand how it works and its main ingredient, dihydroxyacetone (DHA).

Summary
Published June 20, 2025, updated on June 20, 2025, by Jamal, PhD, Doctor of human pathology and infectious diseases — 6 min read
Self-tanning

Is a self-tanning product suitable for hair coloring?

Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is a molecule naturally derived from certain sugars and common in self-tanners. When applied to the skin, it reacts with amino acids in the stratum corneum to form melanoidins, brown pigments that produce a temporary coloration. DHA is also used in some natural hair color formulations, classified as non-oxidative. These work by coating the hair fiber with a surface tint that does not penetrate cuticles or alter keratin. But is a self-tanner, although it contains the same molecule, as effective on hair?

Although using a self-tanner to color hair might seem logical, this product isn’t designed for that use.

Several factors explain why self-tanner is not suited to hair. First, self-tanners lack ingredients that ensure lasting fixation on the hair fiber. Indeed, the formulations of self-tanners are formulated for skin but not for hair texture and properties. Hair requires specific ingredients, such as binding agents, pigments matched to hair structure, and nutrients that promote adhesion and color retention. These are missing from self-tanner formulations, so applying them to hair can produce unwanted effects, such as yellow or orange tones, not the shade expected from a hair dye. The sticky texture of some self-tanners can leave a dull, uncomfortable finish on hair, reducing its shine and natural appearance.

It is also important to protect your hair if you apply a self-tanner to your skin. Here are some tips:

  • Tie your hair in a bun or use a headband to prevent hair from touching areas where you apply self-tanning product.

  • If you apply tanning lotion near your scalp, use a shower cap to protect your hair.

  • If accidental contact occurs, rinse any self-tanner residue from the hair with warm water to prevent discoloration or stickiness.

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DHA-rich hair dyes: an interesting solution.

DHA-based natural dyes are classified as non-oxidative dyes, which distinguishes them from classic oxidative dyes. Their main difference lies in their mechanism of action.

Oxidative dyes work through a chemical process that involves the use of hydrogen peroxide. This compound enables the dye to penetrate the hair fiber. It alters the internal structure by opening the cuticle, the outer layer, so pigments can enter and bind within the cortex. This process changes the hair structure and makes color more durable, but it can weaken the fiber, leaving it fragile or dry.

Non-oxidative dyes, such as those based on DHA, work at the hair surface. DHA reacts with amino acids in hair keratin without penetrating the fiber. It creates a color layer on the hair exterior without altering the fiber’s internal structure. This means non-oxidative dyes better preserve the hair fiber and avoid damage. However, this dye is temporary and requires regular reapplications since it does not bind permanently to the hair. After about five washes, the color fades.

Non-oxidative hair dyes based on DHA are a gentle option for temporary hair coloring. If you want to dye your hair with DHA, use a product formulated for hair dye rather than a self-tanner containing this molecule.

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