The secrets of an effective gentle peel.

The gentle or superficial peel is typically performed using treatments primarily composed of fruit acids or A.H.A. of natural origin. Among these, you will notably find glycolic acid or lactic acid. The purpose of this process is to eliminate dead cells on the surface of the epidermis, by reducing their adhesion. This will then boost the renewal of skin cells to rejuvenate the skin. Thus, the gentle peel helps to tackle minor imperfections (blackheads, acne, etc...), tighten dilated pores, regulate sebum secretion, refine and even out skin texture, brighten the complexion, and smooth out irregularities.

Less concentrated than those performed by a dermatologist (about 10% compared to over 30% by the doctor), the gentle peel is suitable for almost all skin types. Indeed, sensitive skin types, prone to rosacea or any other skin condition, must be cautious in their choice of peel treatment, lest their conditions worsen (irritation, redness, etc...). Therefore, be sure to select a product that is suitable for your skin type. For example, the lactic acid serum or the peel-off mask containing P.H.A. may be suitable, as they are less abrasive than glycolic acid treatments. Of course, as with all cosmetics, we advise you to apply the product to the crook of your elbow for 24 to 48 hours before first use to see if your skin tolerates the treatment well or not. Similarly, individuals who have allergic reactions to the active ingredients used should refrain from using them.

On the day of the peel, prepare your skin to receive the treatment by performing a double cleanse. Start by thoroughly removing your makeup to get rid of any makeup residue with a makeup remover , and continue by washing your face and neck with a cleansing gel suitable for your skin type to finish removing all forms of impurities (pollution residues, dust, sebum, etc...). Once the skin has been properly cleaned and dried, it's time to apply your peel treatment. Those to be done at home come in the form of serum, cream, lotion, or mask:

• If you choose a serum, whether it's based onlactic acid orglycolic acid, take a few drops of the product and spread it over your entire clean, dry face and neck, allowing it to penetrate through small circular movements while avoiding the eye contour;

• If you opt for the peeling mask, apply it in a semi-thick layer on your previously cleaned and dried face and neck, and let it sit for 10 minutes before rinsing thoroughly. This treatment should be used once to twice a week;

• For the exfoliating lotion, to be applied right after cleansing the skin, simply soak a cotton pad with the product and gently dab it onto the epidermis, avoiding the eye contour.

Even if the treatments are lightly concentrated, peeling remains a relatively "aggressive" technique for the epidermis, much like exfoliating. Indeed, skin that has undergone slight desquamation is more sensitive and fragile. Therefore, always remember to pair the use of exfoliating acids with a moisturizing and soothing treatment suitable for your skin type. Similarly, during the day, the skin surface must consistently be protected from ultraviolet rays with a SPF product. Indeed, exfoliating acids tend to be photosensitizing and therefore react when exposed to UV rays, which can lead to the appearance of pigmentation spots. In the same vein, it is preferable to apply these treatments during your evening beauty routine to allow time for the epidermis and the hydrolipidic film to rebuild. Moreover, do not perform peeling on freshly waxed or vigorously exfoliated skin, those with sunburn, or any type of wound.

Sources:

TRUCHUELOA M., CERDAB P. & FERNANDEZ L.F. Chemical Peeling: A Valuable Instrument in the Clinic. Actas Dermo-Sifiliograficas. 2017; 108(4):315-322.

FUNASAKA Y., ABDEL-DAIM M., KAWANA S. & NISHIGORI C. Impact of chemical peeling on the skin in relation to UV exposure. Experimental Dermatology. 2012; 21(s1):31-35.