What is a conditioner typically composed of?

Although available in many forms, conditioners are most commonly oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, which is a dispersion of oil droplets (about 10% of the final formulation) in an aqueous base (mineral water or hydrosol). They were designed to deposit a mixture of macromolecules (synthetic polymers, cationic polyelectrolytes, proteins, etc.) and surfactants on the surface of hair fibers to partially cover the damaged areas appearing in the outermost region of the hair fibers, thereby reducing friction between fibers, detangling hair, minimizing frizz, and allowing for gentler brushing or combing. As a result, they contain various categories of ingredients, with a base that is common to all conditioners.

Cationic surfactants.

Washing habits, excessive or repeated chemical treatments... these are factors that can increase the number of negative charges in hair fibers. However, conditioners contain cationic surfactants, characterized by a positively charged hydrophilic end. The positive charge provided by the surfactant will thus strongly bind to the surface of the negatively charged damaged hair for neutralization. By coating the hair strand in this way, this process helps to minimize frizz, soften the hair, and make it easier to style.

In addition to cationic surfactants, our conditioner formula also contains non-ionic surfactants, which carry no electrical charge. They also contribute to enhancing the anti-static properties of the hair care product.

Conditioning Agents.

Oils, waxes, emollients, fatty acid esters, butters, cationic polymers, or hydrolyzed proteins (amino acids), these substances can be present in a conditioner to provide substance and structure to the hair, making it softer and more flexible. Indeed, they will adhere to the keratin structure of the hair fibers and help flatten the cuticle scales against each other to restore the fiber's hydrophobicity and protect it from abrasive actions until the next shampoo. However, depending on their ability to penetrate the hair fiber, conditioning agents can either reach the surface of the cuticle (> 1000 Da), or the inner part of the cortex (< 1000 Da). This process thus strengthens the hair fiber and repairs existing damage. By attaching to the surface of the hair, they can even enhance the shine of the hair fiber by reflecting light.

Note : Since hydrolyzed amino acids carry a positive charge, they are attracted to the negative charge of damaged hair, thereby neutralizing the electrical charges and reducing frizz and friction. Our resurfacing conditioner is notably enriched with a duo of amino acids, arginine and lysine.

Thickening agents.

Various consistency stabilizers can also be included in the formulation of a conditioner. Carbomer, gums (sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, etc.), fatty alcohols (behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, etc.), waxes (carnauba wax, paraffin wax, etc.)... their role is to increase the viscosity of formulations to provide a consistent texture to conditioners, to add volume to the emulsion, and to allow for better product distribution on the hair. In some cases, these thickeners can also be used for conditioning purposes.

Stabilizing agents.

Of course, any conditioner formulation must contain stabilizing agents to ensure that the product remains safe, stable, and sellable throughout its shelf life, such as:

• of acidity regulators that maintain the pH of the conditioner close to 3.5, suitable for that of hair, and prevent the alkalinization of hair, as a low pH protonates the amino acids of keratin. Indeed, hydrogen ions (H+) give hair a positive charge and create more hydrogen bonds between the keratin scales to tighten them, which alters the hair structure making it more compact. Organic acids, such as citric acid and lactic acid, are generally used to adjust the pH.

• of preservatives that protect the product from decomposition by microorganisms during its shelf life, whether before or after opening. Typical preservatives in conditioners are sodium benzoate, parabens, DMDM hydantoin, or methylisothiazolinone (MIT).

Some conditioners use essential oils to scent the formula as well as the hair, typically not exceeding 1%.

Active Ingredients.

A conditioner is essentially an emulsion with cationic surfactants. It may also contain a care component with additional properties, particularly to help moisturize, strengthen, and make hair easier to style. Many conditioners can, for example, contain humectant compounds, whose purpose is to attract and retain moisture in the hair. On the market, the humectant compounds potentially present in a conditioner are glycerin, panthenol, hyaluronic acid, or even pentylene glycol. However, these ingredients are not very effective in quick-rinse products, as they are not in contact with the hair strand long enough to have a lasting effect.

Comprised of 98% naturally derived ingredients, our resurfacing conditioner plays a role in maintaining the health, shine, and softness of hair. Arginine, squalane, and lysine help to restructure hair to combat hair issues such as dehydration, frizz, and damage. Whether you have dry, curly, colored, thin, kinky, or damaged hair, this conditioner is suitable for all hair types.