What are the benefits of squalane for the skin?

Squalane is the hydrogenated, stable form of squalene, a lipid naturally present in the sebum, where it helps protect the skin from dehydration. Thanks to its biological kinship, it is recognized by the epidermis and works in synergy with the skin’s lipids. This excellent affinity of squalane makes it a preferred ingredient for strengthening the skin’s barrier function. By integrating into the hydrolipidic film, squalane compensates for the lipid deficits often seen in dry or dehydrated skin. It thus limits water loss and helps the skin regain its suppleness and comfort, while reducing sensations of tightness. Moreover, contrary to some claims, the squalane penetrates the skin quite effectively and does not clog pores: oily or acne-prone skin types can therefore use it without concern.

Squalane is a valuable ally for dry skin or skin exposed to external stressors like pollution, wind, and temperature fluctuations...

A recent study evaluated the effects of an emollient containing squalane, ceramides, and 5% urea on the skin barrier of elderly individuals suffering from xerosis, a severe form of dryness. Twenty-one volunteers over 60 years old applied the cream to one forearm for 28 days, while the other forearm remained untreated. Researchers measured transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration via stratum corneum capacitance and surface pH before and after the protocol. The results show a mean decrease in TEWL of 1.07 ± 0.29 g/m²/h, indicating improved water retention, as well as a reduction in pH of 0.15 ± 0.07 units, signaling a shift toward an acid mantle favorable to the skin barrier. Skin hydration also increased by 2.09 ± 0.95 units, even 12 hours after the last application, demonstrating a lasting effect.

These results suggest that squalane, when combined with other naturally occurring skin actives such as ceramides and urea, helps restore skin barrier function and improve hydration in very dry skin.

Squalane therefore helps to hydrate the skin and reinforce the hydrolipidic film. By strengthening the skin barrier, it reduces water loss and protects the skin from external aggressors that cause oxidation and the degradation of collagen and elastin fibers. This protective function helps to preserve the skin’s elasticity and suppleness. Indeed, an intact and functional skin barrier is the first step in delaying the onset of wrinkles and skin sagging.

To date, few studies have been conducted on the effects of squalane on skin aging.

However, a clinical study evaluated the effects of a formulation containing squalane and bakuchiol on 47 women aged 18 to 50 years who had phototypes III and IV according to the classification of Fitzpatrick. For four weeks, the participants applied the cream once daily, while researchers assessed various skin parameters using instrumental measurements.

The results demonstrated a significant improvement in skin elasticity, with an average increase of 11.9% after 28 days. Meanwhile, transepidermal water loss was reduced, indicating a strengthened skin barrier. The study also revealed complexion brightening and a significant decrease in pigmented spots, with an average increase of 38.28% in the ITA parameter as early as two weeks, rising to 50.32% after four weeks, reflecting more even and luminous skin. For reference, the ITA parameter evaluates the degree of skin pigmentation.

Nevertheless, it is difficult to determine whether squalane genuinely contributed to enhancing skin elasticity or if the bakuchiol, whose firming effects have been acknowledged in numerous studies, was solely responsible.

Squalane is not only an excellent emollient agent : it also acts as a carrier that facilitates the delivery of other active ingredients through the skin. Its lipid structure, similar to that of sebum, gives it a natural affinity with the lipids of the stratum corneum, thereby promoting better interaction between cosmetic formulations and the skin barrier. This allows certain active ingredients to be more effectively absorbed by the superficial layers of the skin while also improving their stability.

A study ex vivo explored the role of squalane as a carrier using a porcine skin model closely resembling human skin to evaluate its ability to enhance the penetration of polyphenols, natural compounds known for their antioxidant properties. The researchers incorporated various polyphenols (p-coumaric acid, ferulic acid, gentisic acid, vitexin, schaftoside…) into a water-in-oil emulsion containing 5% squalane, then analyzed their diffusion according to Fick’s law.

The results showed that polyphenols penetrated the skin with initial permeability coefficients ranging from 6.0 to 8.0 × 10⁻³ cm²/h. Adding squalane slightly reduced these coefficients (to between 4.1 and 5.9 × 10⁻³ cm²/h), indicating not a loss of efficacy but an increased retention of active ingredients in the skin. In other words, squalane slows the outward diffusion of polyphenols, extending their residence time in the skin layers. Histological analyses conducted by the researchers also confirmed a more pronounced and sustained accumulation of polyphenols in the skin when squalane was present.

• KARADENIZ F. & al. Biological importance and applications of squalene and squalane. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research (2012).

• CORK M. J. & al. The effect of an emollient containing urea, ceramide NP, and lactate on skin barrier structure and function in older people with dry skin. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology (2016).

• COSTA P. & al. Effect of squalane-based emulsion on polyphenols skin penetration: Ex vivo skin study. Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces (2022).

• GHOLAP A. & al. Daily use of a bakuchiol and squalane-containing face serum impacts skin esthetics. CosmoDerma (2023).

• TADINI G. & al. Basic emollients for xerosis cutis not associated with atopic dermatitis: A review of clinical studies. International Journal of Dermatology (2025).