What are the benefits of zinc for the skin?

Zinc is frequently found in products designed for blemish-prone skin.

This is primarily due to its anti-inflammatory properties. Several studies have shown that it helps modulate the skin’s immune response by reducing the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines, such as IL-1β, IL-17A, and TNF-α, which are involved in the inflammatory processes seen in acne. By limiting this inflammation, zinc helps to reduce redness and inflammatory lesions, such as papules and pustules.

Zinc also has mattifying and antibacterial properties. On one hand, it can reduce sebum production by inhibiting the enzyme 5-alpha-reductase, which is responsible for converting testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT), a hormone that stimulates the activity of the sebaceous glands. By limiting this hormonal stimulation, zinc helps reduce excess sebum, which can clog skin pores and lead to blemishes. On the other hand, certain forms of zinc show antimicrobial activity againstCutibacterium acnes, the bacterium associated with the development of acne lesions.

These effects have been particularly investigated in recent research on zinc oxide (ZnO). A review published in 2025 analyzed several in vitro, animal, and one human clinical study on the topical use of zinc oxide against Cutibacterium acnes. In the included clinical study, application of a gel containing 0.5% zinc oxide combined with hyaluronic acid, used twice daily, significantly reduced the number of inflammatory lesions after four weeks, without causing skin irritation.

Note : Zinc oxide is not the only form of zinc capable of acting against skin imperfections. Zinc PCA, a form of zinc combined with PCA, a Natural Moisturizing Factor, as well as zinc sulfate, can also help reduce acne lesions.

Thanks to this combination of anti-inflammatory, sebum-regulating, and antibacterial effects, zinc thus appears to be a valuable active ingredient for reducing blemishes and rebalancing acne-prone skin.

Zinc is often recommended for oily skin. This trace element may influence the activity of the sebaceous glands, which are responsible for sebum production. Some research suggests that it has a moderate anti-androgenic activity, notably by partially inhibiting the enzyme 5α-reductase, which is involved in converting testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT). This hormone stimulates the sebaceous glands and promotes sebum production. By limiting this hormonal stimulation, zinc may help reduce excess sebum and decrease shiny areas.

Clinical studies have also observed this mattifying effect in topical formulations. In a double-blind study, 14 volunteers applied for three months a lotion containing 4% erythromycin and 1.2% zinc to one half of the forehead, while the other half received a lotion containing erythromycin alone. Sebum production was measured at regular intervals. The results showed a significant decrease in the amount of sebum with the formulation combining zinc and the antibiotic. At the end of the study, the area covered by lipid deposits had decreased by more than 20%, suggesting that combining zinc with erythromycin has a measurable mattifying effect, which may be beneficial for individuals with oily skin.

In the form of zinc oxide (ZnO), zinc is used as a mineral sunscreen filter. It works by forming a barrier on the surface of the skin that can reflect, scatter, and absorb part of UV radiation, in particular UVB and a broad portion of UVA. Zinc oxide acts mainly as a physical blocker, which explains its frequent use in sunscreens designed for sensitive skin or for children. It also has the advantage of being photostable and well tolerated.

To avoid the whitening effect on the skin sometimes associated with zinc oxide, some companies use zinc oxide nanoparticles. By reducing particle size, it becomes possible to achieve lighter textures that are also less visible on the skin. However, this raises certain questions about their potential safety. Available scientific data indicate that, on healthy skin, ZnO nanoparticles penetrate very little beyond the stratum corneum, which limits their passage into the body. Nevertheless, some studies suggest that at high concentrations or on fragile skin, these particles could enter the body. In addition, zinc oxide is toxic when inhaled. This is why it is prohibited in sprays and mists.

At Typology, in accordance with our formulation guidelines, we do not use nanoparticles.

Zinc plays an important role in skin wound-healing processes.

This trace element is involved in numerous enzymatic reactions implicated in tissue repair and helps regulate inflammation, a key step in the healing process. It also promotes the proliferation of keratinocytes, the main cells of the epidermis, and contributes to the synthesis of collagen and extracellular matrix proteins. In addition, Zn²⁺ ions can support the activity of the local immune system, helping to create an environment that favors skin repair following an injury or irritation.

Several studies have examined the effects of zinc applied directly to the skin. In a double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial, researchers evaluated the effect of an emulsion containing 1.1% zinc oxide on wound healing in two standardized models of skin lesions. The results showed that Zn²⁺ ions have anti-inflammatory properties, notably by reducing the secretion of interleukin-1α by keratinocytes, a mediator involved in cutaneous inflammatory responses. In addition, topical application of ZnO has been associated with improved regeneration of the epidermis.

Other experimental studies have also investigated the role of zinc in tissue repair. In an animal model of skin wounds, the application of a zinc sulfate gel showed beneficial effects on healing by reducing inflammation and oxidative stress. The researchers observed that zinc ions could modulate the activity of macrophages, immune cells involved in tissue repair, which promotes the transition of the skin into the proliferative phase of healing. This process is accompanied by an increase in the production of collagen, the formation of granulation tissue, and the remodeling of the extracellular matrix, all of which are essential steps for skin regeneration.

These various studies suggest that zinc may support the skin’s natural repair mechanisms, but it does not replace medical treatment in the case of large or extensive wounds.

Zinc is also of interest for reducing skin hyperpigmentation, particularly melasma, by acting on melanogenesis, the process responsible for melanin production. Experimental studies suggest, for example, that certain zinc derivatives can interfere with the JNK and p38 MAPK signaling pathways, which are involved in regulating melanocyte activity. By inhibiting these pathways, it may be possible to limit melanin synthesis, which could help reduce the appearance of pigment spots. In animal models, certain formulations containing zinc, such as zinc combined with licorice extracts, have been shown to decrease skin pigmentation and melanin production.

The potential depigmenting properties of zinc have also been investigated in clinical trials in patients with melasma. In a study conducted in 93 women, participants received either a 10% zinc sulfate solution or a 4% hydroquinone solution, applied once daily for two months. Changes in melasma severity were assessed using the MASI (Melasma Area and Severity Index) score. A significant decrease in MASI score was observed in both groups, but the improvement was more pronounced with hydroquinone. However, zinc sulfate was considerably better tolerated.

The authors conclude that although topical zinc does not appear to be as effective as hydroquinone in reducing the severity of melasma, it may be of interest in combination with other depigmenting agents, which warrants further investigation in future clinical trials.

Zinc also plays a role in protecting the skin against oxidative stress, a process linked to the accumulation of free radicals that can damage cells. Its antioxidant action is based on several mechanisms. On the one hand, it helps reduce the formation of reactive oxygen species by competing with certain pro-oxidant metals, such as copper and iron. These metals can promote the conversion of hydrogen peroxide into hydroxyl radicals, highly reactive molecules that can damage DNA, proteins, or cellular lipids. By occupying certain binding sites, zinc limits this reaction and thus slows the production of free radicals. It also stimulates the expression of certain antioxidant enzymes, such as Cu/Zn superoxide dismutase (Cu/Zn-SOD), as well as metallothioneins, proteins capable of neutralizing reactive species.

This protection is particularly important for the skin, as it is continuously exposed to factors that promote the production of free radicals, such as UV radiation, pollution, and tobacco.

When these reactive species accumulate, they can damage membrane lipids, structural proteins, and the DNA of skin cells. This phenomenon notably contributes to premature skin aging and can exacerbate inflammation. By helping to strengthen the body’s antioxidant defenses, zinc thus helps preserve the integrity of skin cells and maintain a more resilient skin environment in the face of external stressors.

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