Peeling involves applying an acid-rich treatment to the skin to remove the horny layer and stimulate fibroblasts. It promotes cell renewal and thus fights against various imperfections (spots, enlarged pores, fine lines, blackheads...). A peeling mask can restore firm and radiant skin. However, this treatment sometimes has contraindications and certain compounds should be avoided. Let's delve deeper.
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What are the dangers of the peeling mask?
Summary
- Why should you use a peel-off mask?
- Too frequent usage
- An improper formulation
- Peeling Mask: What precautions should be taken?
- What is the potential alternative to consider?
Published July 22, 2022,
updated on February 15, 2024,
by
Maylis, Chemical Engineer
—
6 min read
Why should you use a peel-off mask?
The skin renews itself approximately every 28 days. Biologically, keratinocytes originating from the deep layer of the epidermis referred to as the basal layer, migrate to the superficial layers of the epidermis while accumulating keratin. Once they reach the skin's surface, they have lost their nuclei and are referred to as corneocytes. They then form the stratum corneum which protects our epidermis from external aggressions. Eventually, these dead cells detach (a process referred to as desquamation) and new corneocytes take their place.
About 10 g of dead skin per day is naturally shed by an adult and immediately renewed!
However, this desquamation process can be disrupted by various factors (pollution, stress, hormonal fluctuations...). The corneocytes accumulate on the skin's surface, clogging the pores and dulling the complexion.
This is where the role of peeling comes into play. It prepares the epidermis for treatment, deeply unclogs the pores, and stimulates blood circulation.
In summary, when performed once or twice a week, peeling improves the skin's texture and overall appearance, provided the following two pitfalls are avoided.
Too frequent usage.
The primary risk associated with peeling masks is using them too frequently (more than twice a week). Indeed, this can cause various skin disorders:
An improper formulation.
Furthermore, certain compounds should be avoided when choosing a peeling mask to free oneself from any skin discomfort or other issues.
The BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole) and the BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene) can be found in peeling masks for their antioxidant properties. Indeed, these substances help prevent oxidation and rancidity. However, these two substances are suspected to be endocrine disruptors. In a nutshell, endocrine disruptors are molecules capable of deregulating the hormonal system. Moreover, the A.R.T.A.C. (French Association for Anti-Cancer Therapeutic Research) classifies them among the potentially carcinogenic substances. Lastly, these two molecules are also known to be sensitizing, thus being a source of allergies.
To prevent the growth and colonization of bacteria, synthetic preservatives are sometimes added to peeling masks.For instance, one might find phenoxyethanol. This compound cancause skin allergies, neurological disorders, as well as effects on reproduction. Given these factors, it is preferable not to choose a treatment that contains phenoxyethanol. Moreover, some peeling masks contain parabens, which are recognized as endocrine disruptors (= substances that disturb hormonal balance). Therefore, avoid choosing a peel that contains, for example, Butylparaben or Propylparaben on its INCI list.
Silicones are sometimes present in peeling masks. While not all silicones have harmful effects on health and some are completely safe to use, cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and cyclopentasiloxane (D5) are bothsuspected to be endocrine disruptors
Peeling Mask: What precautions should be taken?
Avoid using a peeling mask if your skin is irritated, shows redness, and/or has skin conditions such as rosacea, eczema, or psoriasis.
Ensure to adhere to the frequency of use and the application time indicated on the label for this skincare product.
We advise against performing a peeling mask before sun exposure. Indeed, this type of treatment can contain photosensitizing compounds such as A.H.A. Furthermore, it has a "stripping" effect on the superficial layer of the epidermis, thus making the skin particularly receptive and sensitive to the sun's UV rays.
The peeling mask may slightly dry out the skin. Therefore, it is appropriate to apply a treatment afterwards to strengthen the skin barrier: : face serum, night serum, moisturizing cream, vegetable oil, etc...
What is the potential alternative to consider?
However, this does not mean that we should give up on using peeling masks, which truly brighten the skin and help limit the appearance of blackheads. Typology, in particular, offers a peeling mask composed of an exfoliating complex based on four AHAs and one PHA (INCI name: gluconolactone). Applying this gel mask concentrate once or twice a week helps to remove dead cells, unclog pores, and refine the skin's texture.
Suitable for all skin types, the application of this mask is however not recommended for sensitive skin due to its high concentration of alpha hydroxy acids (AHA). Furthermore, these can increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun. Use a sunscreen and limit sun exposure while using this product and for a week afterwards.
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