What is the purpose of texture agents?

Whether they are natural or synthetic, texture agents are cosmetic ingredients designed to enhance the consistency, appearance, and feel of a cosmetic product when applied to the skin or hair. Often overlooked, texture agents are nevertheless essential in formulation as they contribute to making the use of products enjoyable: they are largely responsible for the sensory quality of cosmetics. This type of ingredient can be found in various formulations, whether they are creams, gels, serums, lotions, or even shampoos. Texture agents allow for a variety of textures, ranging from very fluid to thick and rich formulas, offering a wide diversity to formulators and consumers alike.

The primary texturing agents used in cosmetics can be divided into the following categories:

• Thickeners : The purpose of thickeners is to increase the viscosity of a formula, giving it a denser consistency. Among the thickeners commonly used in cosmetics, we find natural gums, such as xanthan gum (INCI: Xanthan Gum) or guar gum (INCI: Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum), as well as synthetic polymers, like carbomer (INCI: Carbomer). These ingredients are often used in creams and balms to give them a richer and creamier texture.

• Gelling agents : Gelling agents are used to create cosmetics in the form of gels, that is, products with a relatively firm consistency, without being too dense. This formulation is particularly appreciated for creating light skincare products intended for combination to oily skin types. Agar-agar (INCI: Agar) and carrageenans (INCI: Carrageenan) are among the gelling agents frequently found in cosmetics.

• Emulsifiers : Emulsifiers, belonging to the surfactant family, have the primary role of stabilizing emulsions. Concurrently, some can influence the texture of products. Emulsifiers such as lecithin (INCI: Lecithin) or polysorbate (INCI: Polysorbate 60) can, for example, enhance the fluidity of skincare products.

• FFilm-forming agents : Often based on silicones or polymers, these ingredients primarily serve to create a light film on the skin's surface. They can also be considered texture agents, as they allow cosmetics to have a silky finish.

• Waxes : Of natural origin, such as beeswax (INCI: Cera Alba) or Candelilla wax (INCI: Candelilla Cera), or synthetic, waxes thicken formulas and add a sense of richness and comfort. They are often used in balms, lipsticks, and rich creams.

Texture agents can thus affect certain organoleptic characteristics of cosmetics. They notably allow them to be made thicker, more fluid, or to achieve a specific texture, such as a gel or a cream. In doing so, they influence how the products are applied to the skin or hair, the touch and finish they leave, as well as the sensory perception and consumer experience.