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What you need to know about niacinamide.

What you need to know about niacinamide.

Niacinamide is a vitamin that helps to alleviate various skin discomforts, such as brown spots, blemishes, or even signs of aging. Less renowned than retinol or vitamin C, niacinamide is nevertheless a multifunctional active ingredient that is full of benefits for the skin. Find below everything you need to know about it as a cosmetic ingredient.

What is niacinamide?

The history of niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, dates back to the late 19th century. In 1873, Austrian scientist Hugo WEIDEL used nicotine to extract niacinamide, while American biochemist Conrad ELVEHIEM successfully isolated it from animal liver in 1937. Although science has confirmed the presence of this vitamin in our diet, the body struggles to synthesize it. Moreover, as a water-soluble vitamin, the body cannot store it and eliminates it through urine. Therefore, to maintain good health, it is important to regularly supply the body with vitamin B3 through diet (fatty fish, white meat, cereals...). Indeed, a deficiency can lead to a disease called pellagra, characterized by significant skin rashes, digestive disorders, and nervous system dysfunctions.

Vitamin B3 is essential to our body as it plays a role in the synthesis of coenzymes NADP (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate) and NAD (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide). These are crucial to the energy transfer processes at the heart of cells. They are involved in many reactions of our metabolism, such as the breakdown of certain carbohydrates and lipids, as well as oxygen radical species, which are harmful to the body. It's worth noting : Three molecules with different chemical formulas are related to vitamin B3 : these are niacinamide, niacin, and nicotinamide riboside.

What are the benefits of niacinamide for the skin?

Niacinamide is a broad-spectrum ingredient. It is suitable for both mature skin to combat signs of aging (brown spots and wrinkles) and for young skin with imperfections.

  • Niacinamide strengthens the hydrolipidic film and activates the skin's barrier function. This vitamin thus reduces transepidermal water loss. The stratum corneum maintains a good level of hydration, preventing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.

  • Its soothing properties help to reduce inflammation and thus decrease redness associated with blemishes or various skin conditions such as eczema.

  • Multiple studies have demonstrated its ability to stimulate the synthesis of collagen and trans-epidermal proteins such as filaggrin. Thus, niacinamide helps to maintain firm and elastic skin for as long as possible.

  • Niacinamide helps to reduce pigmentation spots that can appear due to various factors (age, sun, hormonal fluctuations...). Indeed, scientists have demonstrated the inhibition of melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes through topical treatment with niacinamide.

  • Niacinamide regulates the level of sebum on the skin's surface, thereby preventing the pore blockage that leads to the formation of blackheads and comedones.

  • Studies have shown the antioxidant power of this vitamin, which helps combat skin photoaging. As a reminder, UV radiation leads to the formation of reactive oxygen species responsible for creating free radicals that directly damage DNA, lipids, and proteins, and accelerate skin aging.

Are there any side effects and contraindications to niacinamide?

Non-irritating, niacinamide is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. There are no contraindications to its use. Niacinamide is not a photosensitizing substance, so a product containing it can be applied both in the evening and in the morning. This vitamin is also not particularly sensitive to light or oxidation.

Our niacinamide skincare treatments.

We have developed several formulas containing this multifunctional active ingredient.

  • The unifying serum Niacinamide 12% helps to reduce redness and blemishes while refining the skin's texture. This serum should be applied morning and evening to a face that has been previously cleaned and dried. An application period of 4 weeks is necessary to see its effects.

  • The unifying toner contains 7% niacinamide and helps to even out the complexion and reduce redness and blemishes. Its pH, which is similar to that of the skin, helps to rebalance the skin's pH after the makeup removal/cleansing stages.

  • The under-eye care is also enriched with caffeine and cornflower hydrosol. It reduces the appearance of bags and dark circles over the long term. The six shades have been developed according to the Fitzpatrick phototype scale, a system created by an American dermatologist from Harvard. This scale allows individuals to be classified based on their skin's reaction to sun exposure. The more melanin the skin secretes, the darker it is and the better it is protected from the sun.

  • Enriched with decongesting active ingredients (5% caffeine and 5% niacinamide), the eye serum helps to reduce the appearance of blue circles and under-eye bags, for a brighter look.

  • The unifying cleansing gel is concentrated with active ingredients to reduce redness associated with blemishes and even out the complexion while cleansing the skin of impurities. The gentle, plant-based surfactants that make up this gel are non-drying and cleanse the skin without damaging its hydrolipidic film. The skin is left feeling soft, supple, and comfortable.

Sources:

  • BOISSY R.E. & al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. British Journal of Dermatology (2002).

  • GEHRING W. Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2004).

  • KREFT D. & al. Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology (2014).

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