What you need to know about azelaic acid.

In Ayurvedic medicine, grains of wheat, barley, and rye have been used for centuries for the treatment of topical hyperpigmentation. A particularly active molecule, theazelaic acid, is present in these plant compounds. It partially inhibits tyrosinase - the enzyme responsible for the formation of melanin.
Years later, studies have demonstrated the bactericidal properties and anti-inflammatory effects of this molecule, which has led to its application for the treatment of common acne and rosacea.

In dermocosmetics, the exfoliating action of azelaic acid is gentle compared to that of AHAs and BHAs. It is used in a percentage equal to or less than 10% in cosmetic formulas. Higher concentrations are reserved for professionals such as dermatologists and estheticians.

According to the S.F.D. (French Society of Dermatology), 15 million people in France are affected by acne problems, including 3.3 million aged over 15 years. The primary reason for consultation with a dermatologist, this skin condition can lead to a lack of self-confidence and significant psychological distress. Azelaic acid effectively combats imperfections; its mode of action is based on three fundamental points.

• It contributes to regulating sebum production.

• Thanks to its properties anti-bacterial, it helps to combat the proliferation of bacteria P.acnes and S.epidermidis that reside in the sebaceous glands present in the dermis and are responsible for vulgar acne.

• Thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties, it reduces redness as well as marks and scars left by blemishes (we refer to this as hyperinflammatory pigmentation).

In cosmetic application, a skincare treatment with azelaic acid can be applied daily, morning and evening. The dosage depends on your skin type and its needs. After a treatment with azelaic acid, to counteract its potential dehydrating effect, apply a moisturizing cream suitable for your skin type. We recommend using our azelaic acid serum for at least 4 weeks to see its effects.

It is wise to combine azelaic acid with a treatment containing an acid with exfoliating properties such as glycolic acid, lactic acid (AHA), or salicylic acid (BHA). Together, they will visibly refine your skin texture and combat excess sebum and pore clogging.

For instance, during your evening beauty routine, you can combine the mattifying serum with azelaic acid and the exfoliating serum with glycolic acid to effectively get rid of blackheads and impurities. On clean and dry skin, first apply the serum with azelaic acid, wait a few minutes, and then subsequently, use the serum with glycolic acid.

Depending on its concentration in a product, azelaic acid can be a medicinal active ingredient used in the treatment of rosacea and vulgar acne or a cosmetic ingredient that helps to regulate sebum, brighten the complexion, and combat blemishes.

In dermatology, azelaic acid is typically used at a concentration ranging between 15 and 20%for the treatment of skin conditions such as vulgar acne and rosacea. It thus falls under the category of medications. It is contraindicated for use if you are hypersensitive to propylene glycol, benzoic acid, and cetearyl alcohol. Contact with the eyes and mucous membranes should be avoided.

In cosmetics, its concentration is lower (equal to or less than 10%), thus demonstrating better skin tolerance. However, it can still cause irritations, slight redness, and dry out the skin in the most sensitive individuals.

• ZOUBOULIS C. C. Acne and sebaceous gland function. Clinics in Dermatology (2004).

• CARNEIRO S. C. & et al. Acne vulgaris: Review and guidelines. Dermatology nursing/Dermatology Nurses Association (2009).

• BUI T. P. & al. Azelaic Acid: Pharmacokinetic and Pharmacodynamic Properties and Its Therapeutic Role in Hyperpigmentary Disorders and Acne. International Journal of Dermatology (1995).