Azelaic acid is not very well known in the skincare world. However, this active ingredient has excellent properties for caring for normal to combination, oily and acne-prone skin. Indeed, it regulates the production of sebum, reduces the formation of blackheads and fights against the bacteria responsible for the appearance of imperfections. Find here all the information you should know about azelaic acid for acne.
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What You Need to Know About the Azelaic Acid Benefits.
Summary
- What Is Azelaic Acid?
- Azelaic Acid for Acne and Oily Skin With Acneic Tendencies
- How to Use Azelaic Acid
- Active Ingredients to Combine With Azelaic Acid Products
- Azelaic Acid Side Effects and Contraindications
- Sources
Published November 1, 2021,
updated on March 1, 2024,
by
Maylis, Chemical Engineer
—
5 min read
What Is Azelaic Acid?
In Ayurvedic medicine, wheat, barley, and rye grains have been used for centuries to treat topical hyperpigmentation. A particularly active molecule, azelaic acid, is present in these plant compounds. It partially inhibits tyrosinase – the enzyme responsible for melanin formation.
Years later, studies demonstrated the bactericidal and anti-inflammatory benefits of azelaic acid, which led to its application in the treatment of acne vulgaris and rosacea.
In dermocosmetics, the exfoliating action of azelaic acid is milder compared to that of AHAs and BHAs. It is used in a percentage equal to or less than 10% in cosmetic formulas. Higher concentrations are reserved for professionals such as dermatologists and beauticians.
Azelaic Acid for Acne and Oily Skin With Acneic Tendencies.
According to the SFD (French Society of Dermatology), 15 million people in France are concerned by acne problems, including 3.3 million over the age of 15. The number one reason for consulting a dermatologist, this skin condition can lead to a lack of self-confidence and real psychological suffering. Azelaic acid beneficially fights against imperfections; its mode of action is based on three fundamental points.
It contributes to regulating the production of sebum.
Thanks to its antibacterial properties, it helps to fight against the proliferation of P.acnes and S.epidermidis bacteria which reside in the sebaceous glands present in the dermis and are responsible for acne vulgaris.
Thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties, it reduces redness as well as marks and scars left by imperfections (we speak of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation).
How to Use Azelaic Acid.
In cosmetic application, and in order to enjoy all benefits, azelaic acid treatments can be applied every day, morning and evening. The dosage depends on your skin type and its needs. After an azelaic acid treatment, to counteract its possible dehydrating power, apply a moisturizing cream adapted to your skin type. We recommend that you use our azelaic acid serum for at least 4 weeks to see its effects.
Active Ingredients to Combine With Azelaic Acid Products.
In order to enjoy the full azeaic acid benefits, it's a good idea to combine the ingredient with a treatment containing an acid with exfoliating properties, such as glycolic acid, lactic acid (AHA) or salicylic acid (BHA). Together, they will visibly refine your skin texture and fight against excess sebum and pore clogging.
For example, during your evening beauty routine, you can combine the azelaic acid matifying serum and the glycolic acid exfoliating serum to effectively get rid of blackheads and impurities. On clean, dry skin, first apply the azelaic acid serum, wait a few minutes and then use the glycolic acid serum.
Azelaic Acid Side Effects and Contraindications.
Depending on its concentration in a product, azelaic acid can be a medicinal active used in the treatment of rosacea and acne vulgaris or a cosmetic ingredient used to regulate sebum, lighten the complexion and fight against imperfections.
In dermatology, azelaic acid for acne vulgaris or roseacea treatment is used at a concentration generally between 15 and 20%. It is therefore classified as a drug. It is contraindicated to use it if you are hypersensitive to propylene glycol, benzoic acid and cetostearyl alcohol. Contact with the eyes and mucous membranes should be avoided.
In cosmetics, its concentration is lower (less than or equal to 10%) and it therefore has a better skin tolerance. Nevertheless, azelaic acid side effects can still be irritation, slight redness and dry skin in the most sensitive subjects.
Sources:
ZOUBOULIS C. C. Acne and sebaceous gland function. Clinics in Dermatology (2004).
CARNEIRO S. C. &al. Acne vulgaris: Review and guidelines. Dermatology nursing/Dermatology Nurses Association (2009).
BUI T. P. & al. Azelaic acid: pharmacokinetic and pharmacodynamic properties and its therapeutic role in hyperpigmentary disorders and acne. International Journal of Dermatology (1995).
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