Dandruff affects a large portion of the adult population and manifests as visible flakes on the scalp. Its origin is multifactorial, involving both an overgrowth of the fungus Malassezia, excess sebum production, and skin sensitivity. In response to this imbalance, certain active compounds are particularly effective at restoring scalp balance. Let’s explore which ones to favor for sustainable dandruff control.
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Which active ingredients can act against dandruff?
Summary
- Ciclopirox olamine, a versatile antifungal agent against dandruff
- Piroctone olamine, a gentle anti-dandruff active ingredient
- Zinc pyrithione, effective against dandruff but banned in the European Union
- Ketoconazole, the reference standard antifungal active ingredient
- Selenium sulfide for managing excessive sebum production and dandruff
- Salicylic acid, to cleanse the scalp and eliminate dandruff
- Sources
Published September 2, 2025,
updated on September 2, 2025,
by
Pauline, Chemical Engineer
—
15 min read
Ciclopirox olamine, a versatile antifungal agent against dandruff.
Among the frequently used anti-dandruff active ingredients is the ciclopirox olamine. It is an antifungal from the hydroxypyridone family whose efficacy depends on its ability to disrupt microbial metabolism. Thanks to its cyclic chemical structure, ciclopirox olamine can bind certain metal ions, such as iron, which are essential to the activity of many fungal enzymes involved in mitochondrial respiration, thereby reducing yeast viability. Ciclopirox olamine exhibits a broad-spectrum antifungal activity, particularly against Malassezia.
Ciclopirox olamine also exhibits anti-inflammatory properties which further support its use in cases of dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis. By modulating certain enzymes in the inflammatory cascade, such as cyclooxygenase and 5-lipoxygenase, it reduces the production of pro-inflammatory mediators, such as prostaglandins and leukotrienes. This diminishes redness, itching, and irritation associated with dandruff, while also limiting the risk of recurrence. The ciclopirox olamine is a generally well-tolerated active ingredient that can act in various ways to reduce dandruff and has been the subject of numerous studies.
| Study | Participants | Protocol | Results |
|---|---|---|---|
| ROSENMAN & al. (2000) | 82 individuals with seborrheic dermatitis. | Twice-weekly application for 4 weeks of a shampoo containing 1% ciclopirox olamine or a placebo. | Resolution or significant improvement was observed in 93% of subjects in the control group, compared to 41% in the placebo group. |
| GOODE & al. (2002) | 154 individuals with dandruff, including 70 with seborrheic dermatitis. | Apply, three times weekly for 4 weeks, a shampoo containing 1.5% ciclopirox olamine plus 3% salicylic acid or a shampoo containing 2% ketoconazole. | A 22% reduction in dandruff and a 62.5% decrease in the area of seborrheic dermatitis with ciclopirox olamine–salicylic acid shampoo, compared to a 26% reduction in dandruff and an 80.5% decrease in the seborrheic dermatitis area with ketoconazole shampoo. |
| CHO & al. (2003) | 57 individuals with dandruff. | Apply a shampoo containing 1.5% ciclopirox olamine or a shampoo containing 2% ketoconazole three times per week for four weeks. | An 87.5% reduction in dandruff was achieved with ciclopirox olamine shampoo compared to an 88.9% reduction with ketoconazole shampoo. |
The effects of ciclopirox olamine on dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis.
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Piroctone olamine, a gentle anti-dandruff active ingredient.
Another option for dandruff: the piroctone olamine, a particularly effective antifungal agent against Malassezia. Its mechanism of action relies on a direct interaction with fungal metabolism. Piroctone olamine is able to cross the yeast membrane and bind intracellular iron ions, which it chelates into stable complexes. This iron deprivation, essential for mitochondrial enzymes, disrupts cellular respiration and compromises fungal viability. At the same time, piroctone olamine helps limit sebum secretion, on which Malassezia depends for survival. Thus, beyond its antifungal role, piroctone olamine contributes to restoring a healthier skin environment.
| Study | Participants | Protocol | Results |
|---|---|---|---|
| SHARIFI-RAD et al. (2015) | 30 individuals with dandruff | Use a shampoo containing plant extracts, 1% piroctone olamine, and zinc PCA three times per week for two months, with a five-week treatment period. | Complete elimination of dandruff in 15 patients as early as week 2, in 12 patients after 4 weeks, and in 3 patients by the end of week 5 |
| ZIANE & al. (2016) | 41 individuals with dandruff. | The 12-week study was divided into three phases: (1) three applications per week of a neutral shampoo during the first two weeks; (2) three applications per week of an anti-dandruff shampoo (identical formulation to the neutral shampoo but containing 0.5% piroctone olamine) during the following four weeks; (3) three applications per week of a neutral shampoo during the final six weeks. | Reduction of scaling, itching, oiliness, and redness observed over the 4-week treatment period. |
The effects of piroctone olamine on dandruff.
You can find piroctone olamine in our anti-dandruff shampoo.
Zinc pyrithione, effective against dandruff but banned in the European Union.
The zinc pyrithione has long been regarded as an essential active ingredient in anti-dandruff shampoos. Its efficacy is based on a dual action : on the one hand, antifungal activity targeting Malassezia yeasts by disrupting membrane transport of essential ions, thereby inhibiting their growth and energy metabolism; on the other hand, a mild antibacterial and keratolytic activity that limits microbial proliferation and reduces excessive scalp flaking.
| Study | Participants | Protocol | Results |
|---|---|---|---|
| WALKER & al. (1985) | 32 subjects with dandruff | Use twice weekly for four weeks of a 1% zinc pyrithione shampoo or a placebo | Significant reduction in dandruff. |
| PARK & al. (2009) | 30 individuals with dandruff | Use of a shampoo containing 1% zinc pyrithione or a placebo for 4 weeks. | Significant reduction in sebum production, itching, and dandruff in the “zinc pyrithione” group. |
The effects of zinc pyrithione on dandruff.
However, despite its historical effectiveness, zinc pyrithione was reclassified in the European Union as CMR substance (carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic to reproduction) category 1B. Following this classification, its use in cosmetic products has been banned since March 2022. This decision stems from a precautionary regulatory approach : although the risks to the end user were deemed limited under normal conditions of use, the principle of protecting public health prevailed.
Ketoconazole, the reference standard antifungal active ingredient.
Ketoconazole is a synthetic antifungal agent used exclusively in pharmaceutical formulations, and not in cosmetic products. It is prescribed as a shampoo to treat severe dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis when conventional active ingredients are insufficient. Its mechanism of action is based on inhibiting sterol synthesis in the yeast cell membraneMalassezia, thereby disrupting the fungal cell membrane integrity and cellular metabolism. This targeted antifungal action effectively reduces the proliferation of Malassezia, limits the breakdown of sebum lipids into irritating fatty acids and, consequently, reduces scalp inflammation and flaking.
| Study | Participants | Protocol | Results |
|---|---|---|---|
| LEHTONEN & al. (1992) | 101 individuals with dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis. | Double-blind study comparing a 2% ketoconazole shampoo with a 1% hydrocortisone shampoo. | Significant reduction in symptoms was observed in both groups, with ketoconazole showing slightly greater efficacy (response rate of 88% vs. 80%). |
| DE DONCKER & al. (2001) | 66 subjects with dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis. | Study with two parallel groups comparing 1% and 2% ketoconazole shampoo over four weeks. | Ketoconazole 2% showed superior efficacy compared to 1% at weeks 2 and 4: a greater reduction in scaling and Malassezia density, along with a more pronounced improvement in the dandruff score. |
The effects of ketoconazole on dandruff.
Selenium sulfide for managing excessive sebum production and dandruff.
Selenium sulfide is an antifungal and keratolytic agent commonly used in anti-dandruff shampoos. Its mode of action relies on two complementary mechanisms. On the one hand, it acts directly on the fungus Malassezia by limiting its proliferation on the scalp surface, which reduces the production of irritating metabolites resulting from sebum breakdown. On the other hand, it exerts a cytostatic effect on epidermal keratinocytes: it slows their turnover, the acceleration of which is responsible for excessive desquamation and visible scale accumulation. Thanks to this dual effect, selenium sulfide helps restore scalp balance and reduce the appearance of dandruff.
| Study | Participants | Protocol | Results |
|---|---|---|---|
| GODSE & al. (2024) | 30 individuals with dandruff | Use of a 2.5% selenium sulfide shampoo every 3 days for 4 weeks. | Significant reduction in dandruff score from 11.5 to 7.17 (S1), to 4.93 (S2), and then to 2.5 (S4). 100% of participants reported improvement and no side effects were observed. |
| BARBOSA & al. (2025) | 93 individuals with dandruff, of whom 41% had straight hair, 29% had curly hair, and 31% had coily hair. | Use a 1% selenium sulfide shampoo twice a week for 6 weeks. | Significant improvement in dandruff, pruritus, and erythema observed as early as 4 weeks across all hair types. No adverse effects reported. |
The effects of selenium sulfide on dandruff.
Salicylic acid, to cleanse the scalp and eliminate dandruff.
The salicylic acid is a widely used keratolytic agent in cosmetics, particularly for removing blackheads. It also holds benefits for scalps prone to dandruff. Indeed, salicylic acid can dissolve the bonds between corneocytes, the cells of the stratum corneum, facilitating the removal of accumulated flakes on the surface. However, unlike antifungal agents that directly target Malassezia, salicylic acid acts in an indirect manner and when used alone, it is often insufficient against dandruff. This is why it is frequently combined with antifungal agents, such as ciclopirox olamine, piroctone olamine, or selenium sulfide.
| Study | Participants | Protocol | Results |
|---|---|---|---|
| GOODE & al. (2002) | 154 people with dandruff and 70 with seborrheic dermatitis | Use 3 times per week for 4 weeks of a shampoo with 3% salicylic acid and 1.5% ciclopirox olamine or a shampoo with 2% ketoconazole. | Significant improvement in dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis in both groups. More pronounced reduction of itching in the salicylic acid/ciclopirox olamine group. |
| PI & al. (2025) | 20 people with seborrheic dermatitis | Use for 4 weeks of a gel containing salicylic acid, piroctone olamine, and zinc PCA (1x/week) and of a lotion with salicylic acid and piroctone olamine, followed by 12 weeks of using the lotion alone. | Significant reduction in scores: dandruff (-55%), itching (-53%), erythema (-29%), seborrhea (-46%). After 16 weeks, 90% of the patients transitioned to a mild form, with an overall clinical improvement of 80%. |
| WEI & al. (2025) | 95 people with seborrheic dermatitis. | Use 3 times a week for 4 weeks a shampoo with 0.9% salicylic acid and 1% selenium sulfide. | Severe cases reduced from 28.4% to 3.2%. 90.5% of participants were left with only mild dandruff or none at all. Significant improvement was noted across all symptoms (itching, scaling, erythema). |
The effects of salicylic acid on dandruff.
Sources
WALKER A. P. & al. The effects of a shampoo containing zinc pyrithione on the control of dandruff. British Journal of Dermatology (1985).
ROSENMAN D. & al. A double-blind, placebo-controlled trial of a ciclopirox olamine 1% shampoo for the treatment of scalp seborrheic dermatitis. Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2000).
GOODE K. & al. A randomised, single-blind, single-centre clinical trial to evaluate comparative clinical efficacy of shampoos containing ciclopirox olamine (1.5%) and salicylic acid (3%), or ketoconazole (2%, Nizoral ) for the treatment of dandruff/seborrhoeic dermatitis. Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2002).
GOODE K. & al. A randomised, single-blind, single-centre clinical trial to evaluate comparative clinical efficacy of shampoos containing ciclopirox olamine (1.5%) and salicylic acid (3%), or ketoconazole (2%, Nizoral) for the treatment of dandruff/seborrhoeic dermatitis. Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2002).
CHO K. H. & al. Successful treatment of dandruff with 1.5% ciclopirox olamine shampoo in Korea. Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2003).
PARK J. & al. Clinical efficacy for 1% zinc pyrithione shampoo for the treatment of dandruff. Korean Journal of Dermatology (2009).
SHARIFI-RAD J. & al. Preparation of strong Antidandruff Shampoousing medicinal plant Extracts: A clinical trial and chronic dandruff treatment. Jundishapur Journal of Natural Pharmaceutical Products (2015).
ZIANE S. & al. [How I treat … dandruff using a shampoo with a sulfate-free tensio-active]. Revue Médicale de Liège (2016).
GODSE K. & al. Safety, efficacy and attributes of 2.5% selenium sulfide shampoo in the treatment of dandruff: A single-center study. Cureus (2024).
BARBOSA V. & al. A selenium disulfide-based shampoo is beneficial for dandruff management and rebalancing the scalp microbiome of subjects of any hair type. Skin Appendage Disorders (2025).
PI L. & al. A cohort clinical study on the efficacy of topical salicylic acid/piroctone olamine dandruff pre-gel and cleanser in improving symptoms of moderate to severe seborrheic dermatitis of the scalp. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2025).
WEI A. & al. A study on dermatologists’ self-assessment of the efficacy of a 1% selenium disulfide – 0.9% salicylic acid -based shampoo for scalp seborrheic dermatitis. Archives of Dermatological Research (2025).
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