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Phtalates cosmétiques.

Why doesn't Typology use phthalates?

Phthalates are chemical substances derived from phthalic acid. In cosmetics, they are generally used as fixative and film-forming agents. In hair care products, they make the fiber more flexible, lighter, and shinier. Subject to controversy, they are accused of being allergenic, even toxic, and are implicated as endocrine disruptors. The European Union has banned most of these compounds in cosmetic formulas. The only one still allowed is the dimethyl phthalate (INCI: Dimethyl phthalate - DPE). Let's focus on these chemical compounds that are widely subject to controversy.

Summary
Published October 22, 2021, updated on February 14, 2024, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 5 min read
Excipients

Everything you need to know about Dimethyl Phthalate (DEP).

Phthalates are colorless, slightly volatile liquid substances. Originally, these ingredients were used as plasticizers in plastic materials, particularly polyvinyl chloride (PVC), to make them more flexible. In cosmetics, they were primarily used for their fixative and film-forming properties. However, recognized as endocrine disruptors, most of them were banned from cosmetic formulas by the European Union in 2013. Only dimethyl phthalate (DEP) remains authorized: this ingredient is multifunctional. Here is a non-exhaustive list of its properties:

  • Film-forming : It forms a continuous film on the skin, hair, or nails, particularly useful for long-lasting nail polish;

  • Fragrance Agent : It is often used to mask an unpleasant smell and give the product a pleasant scent;

  • Hair Conditioner: The DEP provides shine and flexibility to the hair, making styling easier;

  • Solvent : It aids in the dilution of other ingredients in cosmetic formulas.

Phthalates: What are the health risks?

The ANSES (National Agency for Food Safety, Environment and Labor) classifies phthalates as endocrine disruptors. The following species have been categorized by the ECHA (European Chemicals Agency) as carcinogenic, reprotoxic and mutagenic (CRM), and are also banned by Regulation No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of November 30, 2009 in cosmetic products:

  • Butyl Benzyl Phthalate (BBP);

  • Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP);

  • Bis 2-ethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP);

  • Diisobutyl Phthalate (DIBP);

  • Diisopentyl phthalate (DIPP);

  • Bis 2-methoxyethyl phthalate (DMEP) ;

  • Di-n-pentyl phthalate DnPP ;

  • Dipentyl Phthalate Ester (DPP).

Note : In toxicology, four types of exposures are observed: inhalation, intravenous, ingestion, or skin contact. The body's assimilation of any of these substances can affect fertility and the development of the fetus or even the newborn.

Current regulations in effect.

In 2013, a large number of phthalates were banned by the European Union due to their cancer-causing and endocrine-disrupting effects, among which are DEHP, DBP, and BBP. However, four phthalates (DEHP, BBP, DBP, and DIBP) were listed in Annex XIV of the REACH regulation on February 24, 2011 as concerning substances subject to authorization. Indeed, specific authorizations on the use of substances classified as Category 2 CMRs can be approved on a case-by-case basis by the European Commission. Companies, however, must demonstrate the adoption of necessary safety measures aimed at controlling risks. The other phthalates still need to be analyzed concerning the REACH directive. As a result, they must be included in the category of substances requiring temporary and restrictive authorization while awaiting the proposal of other substitute ingredients.

Typology does not use dimethyl phthalate (DEP), and phthalates in general, in its formulas.

At Typology, we have chosen to apply the precautionary principle and exclude these compounds from our formulations. As a responsible skincare brand, we develop healthy, minimalist formulas free from controversial ingredients. Find our blacklist strict for products that respect your health and the environment.

Sources:

  • SCHETTLER T. Human exposure to phtalates via consumer products, International Journal of Andrology (2006).

  • BYUNG-MU L. Risk assessment of unintentional phthalates contaminants in cosmetics. Regulary Toxicology and Pharmacology (2020).

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