Astaxanthin to fight acne?

The acne is a noncontagious skin condition affecting mainly the face and back. It results from a dysfunction of the pilosebaceous units, marked by the formation of comedones, blackheads, or inflammatory lesions. Three main factors contribute to its development: excessive sebum production (seborrhea), pore blockage due to keratinocyte buildup (hyperkeratosis), and the proliferation of the bacterium Cutibacterium acnes.

Indeed, a buildup of sebum rich in oxidized squalene or free fatty acids from triglyceride hydrolysis can be comedogenic and clog skin pores, causing blemishes. Moreover, C. acnes, which feeds on sebum, releases enzymes and inflammatory mediators that can worsen acne and advance it to an inflammatory stage, with the development of papules and pustules.

Unlike common misconceptions, acne is not due to poor hygiene. In most cases, this condition has a hormonal origin.

The astaxanthin is a strong natural antioxidant from the carotenoid family. It is produced by certain microalgae, including Haematococcus pluvialis, and concentrates in marine organisms such as krill, shrimp, salmon, or shellfish. In skincare, the astaxanthin draws growing interest for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that may support acne-prone skin.

What role do the antioxidant properties of astaxanthin play in fighting acne?

One of acne’s key mechanisms involves dyseborrhea, that is, a change in sebum quality. This change is marked by a deficiency in vitamin E, an essential fat-soluble antioxidant that protects squalene—one of sebum’s primary components—from oxidation. Without this protection, free radicals oxidize squalene into squalene peroxide, a comedogenic compound. This impairs sebum fluidity, promotes pore blockage, and worsens or triggers acne.

Astaxanthin has an antioxidant capacity estimated up to 500 times greater than vitamin E under certain conditions and may compensate for this deficit. By neutralizing reactive oxygen species, it may help to limit lipid oxidation of sebumand preserve cell membrane integrity. Astaxanthin may act upstream of the inflammatory process and prevent comedone formation.

What anti-inflammatory properties does astaxanthin have against acne?

Acne-prone skin shows elevated levels of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), enzymes involved in collagen breakdown and inflammation persistence. Astaxanthin has shown its ability to inhibit MMP-1 and MMP-3 production, as well as proinflammatory cytokines such as IL-1β and TNF-α, known to amplify inflammatory lesions. This process involves inhibition of the NF-κB signaling pathway, a transcription factor central to the inflammatory response. By blocking IκB kinase activation, astaxanthin keeps NF-κB inactive in the cytoplasm, preventing expression of proinflammatory genes associated with worsening acne lesions.

If the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of astaxanthin may be relevant for acne-prone skin, it should be noted that this active does not act on excessive sebum production nor on follicular hyperkeratinization, two key mechanisms in lesion development. Most existing studies were conducted in vitro or on animal models. No clinical trial demonstrates the benefits of topical astaxanthin for acne. Its use should be viewed as a supplement rather than a standalone solution. Regarding oral intake, one study has addressed the topic.

This randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study in 34 patients with inflammatory acne (papulopustular forms) evaluated oral astaxanthin at 4 mg per day, added to standard therapy (0.025% topical tretinoin and 1.2% clindamycin), on serum E‐selectin, an adhesion molecule involved in skin inflammation. After one month of treatment, no significant difference was observed in E‐selectin levels, either within the treated group or compared with placebo. These results suggest that oral astaxanthin does not provide a measurable anti-inflammatory benefit for this biomarker.

Acne is a medical concern. If your symptoms persist or cause distress, we advise you to consult a dermatologist. Cosmetic treatments can help minor or temporary imperfections but cannot replace dermatological care.

• DHANKHAR J. & al. Astaxanthin : A potential carotenoid. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research (2012).

• NAME J. J. & al. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory mechanisms of action of astaxanthin in cardiovascular diseases (review). International Journal of Molecular Medicine (2020).

• PAMUNGKASARI E. P. & al. A randomised controlled trial: The effect of oral astaxanthin as an anti-inflammatory agent on serum level of e-selectin in acne vulgaris. Bali Medical Journal (2020).