Astaxanthin: What should you know about this pigment?

Belonging to the carotenoid family, astaxanthin is a liposoluble pigment classified within the broad family of terpenes and phytochemical compounds. Its structure was first discovered by Professor Basil WEEDON in 1975. He determined that unlike other carotenoids, astaxanthin does not convert into vitamin A in the body. Astaxanthin typically originates from unicellular algae and its primary source is the micro-algae Haematococcus pluvialis. This particular algae is capable of producing it in large quantities in response to environmental stress, as this pigment plays an antioxidant and protective role for the algae itself.

In the food chain, astaxanthin is accumulated by certain marine animals, which accounts for its presence in various seafood (shrimp, lobsters, crabs, lobsters), as well as in certain fish, such as salmon, trout, or krill. This pigment is the source of theirpink to red coloring.

The astaxanthin is included in the composition of certain skincare products under its INCI name "Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract".

Astaxanthin can be derived from either animal or plant sources. It can be obtained from crustaceans or through the cultivation of unicellular algae, such as Haematococcus pluvialis. The extraction of astaxanthin most often relies on the use of supercritical carbon dioxide, a process favored for its efficiency and environmental friendliness as it avoids the use of toxic solvents. To do this, CO₂ is brought into a supercritical state, that is, a physical state intermediate between liquid and gas, achieved at a temperature above 31°C and a pressure beyond 73.8 bar. The supercritical state allows CO2 to dissolve lipophilic compounds, like astaxanthin.

During the extraction process, the biomass is placed in an extractor and subjected to supercritical CO₂. This penetrates the cells, solubilizes the astaxanthin, and is then directed towards a separator where the pressure is reduced: the astaxanthin then precipitates, while the CO₂ is recovered and recycled in the system. This technique allows for the extraction of active molecules with great precision and avoids any thermal alteration. According to a study, the optimal yield for the extraction of astaxanthin from crustaceans was achieved at 43°C and 370 bar, with a recovery rate of about 39%. Although the astaxanthin derived from crustaceans is structurally identical to that obtained from microalgae, it is less often used in skincare because the extracts may contain residues of marine allergens.

At Typology, we use plant-based astaxanthin, extracted from the biomass of the micro-algae Haematococcus pluvialis through CO2 supercritical extraction.

Due to its unique molecular structure, astaxanthin possesses chemical properties that provide benefits for skin care.

• Astaxanthin to combat oxidative stress.

  Oxidative stress is a phenomenon directly related to the body's overproduction of free radicals. These compounds are highly unstable due to their unpaired electron. They degrade various components essential for maintaining firm and elastic skin, such as collagen and elastin, thereby accelerating skin sagging and the appearance of fine lines. It's worth noting that the production of free radicals is significantly increased by certain external factors, such as the sun's UV rays (this is referred to as photoaging), pollution, smoking, stress, and so on.

  Thanks to its 13 conjugated polyunsaturated double bonds, astaxanthin is capable of neutralizing free radicals. Moreover, its amphiphilic structure allows it to insert itself into the bilayers of cell membranes and limit the damage caused by lipid peroxidation. This phenomenon, triggered by oxidative stress, is responsible for tissue damage and affects not only the membranes of cells, but also the overall barrier function of the skin. By capturing and neutralizing free radicals, astaxanthin thus has a significant protective effect on the skin.

• Astaxanthin safeguards collagen from degradation.

  A study also revealed that astaxanthin is capable of protecting collagen from degradation. Indeed, astaxanthin works by increasing the release of TIMP-1, a matrix metalloproteinase inhibitor. These are enzymes that degrade collagen and thus disrupt the extracellular matrix. Astaxanthin therefore has a dual protective effect on collagen, by eliminating free radicals and inhibiting matrix metalloproteinases.

• Astaxanthin to combat skin dehydration.

  Dehydrated skin is characterized by a loss of radiance and feelings of discomfort. In some cases, it may flake and exhibit a rough texture. Therefore, it is crucial to care for your skin and hydrate it regularly. A study has shown that astaxanthin can help to improve skin hydration. Over three weeks, eleven volunteers used a cream formulated with astaxanthin. The results showed a significant increase in the hydration levels of the stratum corneum among all participants, as evidenced by instrumental measurements.

  While the exact mechanism of action for astaxanthin has not been clarified, we can propose the following hypothesis: by stabilizing cellular membranes and limiting lipid peroxidation, astaxanthin could potentially contribute to strengthening the skin barrier, thereby reducing transepidermal water loss. More studies, conducted on larger panels, are still needed to confirm whether astaxanthin's hydrating effect is direct or indirect.

• Astaxanthin to soothe skin inflammations.

  Astaxanthin also has anti-inflammatory activity that could help soothe skin irritations. It has been shown that astaxanthin inhibits the activity of IκB kinase, a complex that controls the activation of the transcription factor NF-κB. This factor is involved in the regulation of many pro-inflammatory cytokines, such as IL-1β, IL-6, and TNF-α. Astaxanthin also reduces the expression of matrix metalloproteinases, enzymes not only involved in collagen degradation, but also in the propagation of inflammation in skin tissues. These various actions of astaxanthin suggest that it could help soothe mild skin irritations, a hypothesis that would be interesting to verify in clinical studies.

  Note : Numerous studies have highlighted the anti-inflammatory properties of astaxanthin in humans, but all of them involved oral administration.

While astaxanthin is most commonly found in skincare products, it may also have potential benefits for hair, particularly in preventing hair loss. Indeed, this pigment is a natural inhibitor of 5-alpha-reductase, an enzyme that converts testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT). DHT is involved in the miniaturization of hair follicles found in alopecia. An in vitro study showed that astaxanthin, at a concentration of 300 µg/mL, inhibited the activity of 5-alpha-reductase by 98%. However, caution is advised as these results are limited to cellular models and no clinical studies have yet evaluated the effects of astaxanthin on hair loss in humans.

Furthermore, the antioxidant activity of astaxanthin could also help to prevent the whitening of hair. Indeed, by neutralizing free radicals, astaxanthin could help protect the cells of the hair follicle, where oxidative stress accelerates degeneration. This stress is also involved in the gradual discoloration of hair by affecting melanocytes, the cells responsible for pigmentation. Thus, it can be extrapolated that astaxanthin, with its strong antioxidant potential, could potentially help slow the onset of gray hair, although this has not yet been experimentally confirmed.

When applied topically, the astaxanthin is an active ingredient generally well tolerated and does not present any specific risks.

However, even though astaxanthin is suitable for all skin types, there is no such thing as zero risk and it is possible to be allergic to astaxanthin. Indeed, some skin types may naturally be sensitive to the Hematococcus pluvialis, the unicellular algae that is a primary natural source of astaxanthin. Therefore, when first using a product containing it, as with any new product, it is recommended to conduct a test to ensure that the skin tolerates this active ingredient well. Apply a small amount of the product to the inside of your elbow or wrist and wait 24 to 48 hours. If no redness, irritation, or itching appears, you can begin to incorporate it into your skincare routine.

• ANDERSON M. L. A Preliminary Investigation of the Enzymatic Inhibition of 5α-Reductase and Growth of Prostatic Carcinoma Cell Line LNCap-FGC by Natural Astaxanthin and Saw Palmetto Lipid Extract In Vitro. Journal Of Herbal Pharmacotherapy (2005).

• LEE C. & al. Enriched astaxanthin extract from Haematococcus pluvialis augments growth factor secretions to increase cell proliferation and induces MMP1 degradation to enhance collagen production in human dermal fibroblasts. International Journal of Molecular Sciences (2016).

• ITO N. & al. The protective role of astaxanthin for UV-induced skin deterioration in healthy people: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial. Nutrients (2018).

• NAME J. J. & al. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory mechanisms of action of astaxanthin in cardiovascular diseases (Review). International Journal of Molecular Medicine (2020).

• ZHOU X. & al. Systematic review and meta-analysis on the effects of astaxanthin on human skin ageing. Nutrients (2021).

• VIRGIANTI D. P. & al. Formulation and Evaluation of Radiance Serum Containing Astaxanthin–Zeaxanthin Nanoemulsions as an Anti-Wrinkle Agent: Stability, Ex Vivo, and In Vivo Assessments. Cosmetics (2024).