Astaxanthin: what are its benefits for the skin?

Benefit No. 1 : Astaxanthin shields the skin from oxidative stress.

Oxidative stress is among the main factors that threaten skin homeostasis. This situation results from an imbalance in cells between the number of free radicals and the amount of antioxidants. While free radicals are naturally produced during cellular metabolism, exposure to UV rays, pollution, or tobacco increases their number. However, by attacking skin components (DNA, proteins, lipids), free radicals accelerate its aging. It is in this context that the astaxanthin, a potent natural antioxidant, shows its full potential.

Astaxanthin stands out due to its remarkable ability to neutralize free radicals. It operates on multiple levels to protect the skin from oxidative damage. Its unique chemical structure, characterized by 13 conjugated double bonds and the presence of polar groups at its ends, allows it to effectively capture electrons and insert itself within the lipid bilayers of membranes, thus acting as a true cellular shield. Moreover, by neutralizing free radicals, astaxanthin has a protective effect on collagen and elastin, the support proteins of the dermis that help maintain its firmness and elasticity. In vitro studies have also highlighted astaxanthin's ability to inhibit the release of prostaglandin E2 by HaCaT keratinocytes after UVB (20 mJ/cm2) or UVC (5 mJ/cm2) irradiation, inflammatory mediators involved in the occurrence of sunburn.

Even though it can help protect the skin from UV rays, astaxanthin does not replace a broad-spectrum sunscreen.

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Benefit No. 2 : Astaxanthin for preventing skin dehydration.

A rough, uncomfortable skin that feels tight and shows fine lines is likely dehydrated. This skin condition is common and tends to intensify with age and environmental aggressions (sudden temperature changes, wind, etc.). To combat skin dehydration, it is recommended to incorporate humectant actives into your care routine, such as the hyaluronic acid, the polyglutamic acid or even the spirodela. While astaxanthin does not seem to be able to retain water in the horny layer, its antioxidant properties could indirectly contribute to reducing transepidermal water loss.

Indeed, by stabilizing cellular membranes and limiting lipid peroxidation, astaxanthin helps to strengthen the skin barrier, thereby reducing water loss. These properties were highlighted in a study conducted on 11 volunteers, who applied a cream formulated with astaxanthin for three weeks. The results showed a significant increase in the hydration level of the stratum corneum in all participants, as evidenced by instrumental measurements. Although this study is small, it provides an initial insight into the hydrating role of the astaxanthin.

Hydratation de la peau avant et après 3 semaines d'application d'une crème à base d'astaxanthine. — Skin hydration before and after three weeks of applying a cream containing astaxanthin.
Source: SEKI T. et al. Studies on the effects of astaxanthin derived from Haematococcus pluvialis on human skin - patch test, repeated application test, and its impact on wrinkle reduction. Published in the Flavour and Fragrance Journal (2001).

Benefit No. 3 : Astaxanthin for skin firming.

Over time, the skin gradually loses its firmness. This skin laxity is largely due to the decrease in the synthesis of collagen, a protein essential to the structure of the dermis. Present in the form of fibers, collagen plays a central role in tissue regeneration, their elasticity, and resistance. It forms a dense matrix that acts as a support mesh. When collagen production slows down, the skin's framework loses its strength, which is manifested by a decrease in its flexibility and firmness and the appearance of wrinkles.

The astaxanthin has shown promising potential in the stimulation of collagen and the preservation of the dermal extracellular matrix. Studies in vitro have revealed that this molecule is capable of increasing the expression of TIMP-1 (Tissue Inhibitor of Metalloproteinases-1), a natural inhibitor of matrix metalloproteinases. These are enzymes that degrade the structural proteins of the dermis, such as collagen. By inhibiting the expression of MMP-1 and MMP-3 at the messenger RNA level, while promoting that of TIMP-1, astaxanthin helps to limit the degradation of collagen.

Several studies have highlighted the firming effect of astaxanthin. Among the most recent is one conducted by VIRGIANTI with fifteen women averaging 42 years of age. For 28 days, these volunteers applied a nanoemulsion of astaxanthin and zeaxanthin, another pigment from the carotenoid family, twice daily. At the end of the four weeks, a reduction in wrinkles ranging from 80% to 93% was measured. This decrease was observed in both younger and older individuals, demonstrating the serum's effectiveness for all age groups.

Benefit No. 4 : Astaxanthin soothes the skin with its anti-inflammatory properties.

Inflammation is a normal response of the immune system to an assault: UV rays, pollution, pathogens, or oxidative stress. However, when it becomes chronic, it damages the skin barrier, promotes the appearance of redness and irritation, and accelerates skin aging, a phenomenon known as inflamm'aging. Therefore, there is growing interest in active ingredients capable of modulating the inflammatory response without completely nullifying it, such as astaxanthin.

Indeed, astaxanthin operates both upstream, on cellular activation signals, and downstream, on inflammation mediators. Studies have shown that this molecule inhibits the activity of IκB kinase, an enzyme essential for the activation of the transcription factor NF-κB. This factor is involved in the regulation of numerous pro-inflammatory cytokines, such as IL-1β, IL-6, or TNF-α. By blocking the activation of this pathway, astaxanthin keeps NF-κB in the cytoplasm, in an inactive state, thus preventing the transcription of pro-inflammatory genes. Astaxanthin also reduces the expression of matrix metalloproteinases, enzymes not only involved in collagen degradation, but also in the propagation of inflammation in skin tissues.

Beyond its antioxidant role, astaxanthin helps to maintain the integrity of skin tissues and the skin's barrier function. Therefore, it is a beneficial ingredient for skin that is sensitive or prone to redness.