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Points noirs : ces erreurs à éviter pour en venir à bout.

Blackheads: these mistakes to avoid in order to overcome them.

Here are some common mistakes that most people make when trying to eliminate blackheads. If you manage to avoid the following errors, you can certainly maintain clear skin for as long as possible.

Mistake No. 1: Over-exfoliating your skin.

As a reminder, there are two methods: themechanical exfoliation or scrubbing and thechemical exfoliation or peeling. The difference between the two lies in the mode of action of the detachment of dead cells on the skin's surface:

  • Generally, a chemical peel involves substances known as AHA (alpha-hydroxy acids), BHA (beta-hydroxy acids) and PHA (poly-hydroxy acids). These molecules eliminate keratinocytes by breaking the ionic bonds, thereby destabilizing the stratum corneum and causing its gradual detachment.

  • Mechanical exfoliation or scrubbing detaches dead cells from the epidermis through friction. There is no "chemical" action on the surface of the epidermis.

Even though exfoliation, whether chemical or mechanical, can truly assist in eliminating excess sebum and maintaining a tight skin texture with unclogged pores, overuse of chemical and/or mechanical exfoliating treatments can do more harm than good. Excessive exfoliation can actually exacerbate the problem. It can worsen acne and blackheads and trigger an increased production of sebum.

The recommended frequency is as follows: once to twice a week for mechanical exfoliations and once a day for chemical exfoliations.

Mistake No. 2: Popping and fiddling with your blackheads.

Even though it may be tempting, picking and dislodging blackheads by oneself remains a bad idea, despite their unsightly and bothersome nature. By doing so, you not only risk exacerbating them by infecting them with the germs present on your fingers and nails, which will lead to the formation of an acne pimple that will become superinfected, but you also risk irreversibly damaging your skin by causing scars.

Furthermore, if the treated area has not been disinfected, this can lead to their proliferation on the skin. Additionally, as a general rule, they are either half-emptied or poorly squeezed, which creates an inflammatory phenomenon. Similarly, avoid using patches to remove blackheads on the nose or chin. This method is quite harsh on the skin. If you absolutely must remove them, we strongly advise you to make an appointment with a dermatologist or a professional to remove them without damaging the skin with a comedone extractor.

Find here the 3 steps to follow to unclog blackheads.

Mistake No. 3: Using a blackhead vacuum when you have sensitive skin.

A blackhead vacuum applies pressure that helps to remove imperfections lodged in the pores. It typically comes with various adjustable speed nozzles that allow you to manage the degree of suction and is suited for the T-zone of the face (forehead, nose, and chin). This vacuum absorbs blackheads and purifies the skin. Most models offer variable suction intensity.

A blackhead vacuum is not recommended for individuals with thin, sensitive skin or those prone to eczema, as it can cause inflammations that could become chronic. Furthermore, this suction can be harmful to the delicate skin of the face and can lead to the development of telangiectasias, or "broken blood vessels", particularly on and around the nose. In such cases, it is advisable to opt for traditional exfoliation methods.

Mistake No. 4: Not removing makeup.

Removing makeup helps to prevent pore blockage. Foundation, powder, blush, etc., combined with dead skin cells and accumulated dirt, create an opaque film on the skin's surface that clogs the pores and prevents the skin from properly breathing during your sleep. Over time, the lack of oxygen turns the skin into a breeding ground for bacteria. In response, the skin will create redness, inflammation, dilate the pores releasing more sebum, which will promote the appearance of blemishes such as acne and blackheads.

At Typology, thecleansing oil, themicellar water, and thecleansing balmare suitable for all skin types, even the most sensitive ones. These treatments effectively remove makeup residues and surface impurities.

Subsequently, it is essential to proceed to a second step to leave the skin perfectly clean (double cleansing). In addition to the makeup remover, the use of a cleanser is also important. It will gently penetrate and remove impurities, bacteria, pollution residues, etc... that have infiltrated the pores.

Mistake No. 5: Applying comedogenic skincare products.

The term "comedogenic" comes from the word "comedones" and refers to the property of a cosmetic ingredient or a cosmetic product to clog the sebaceous glands, which are responsible for the production of sebum. However, this blockage prevents the natural evacuation of sebum, which tends to cause various skin problems, such as dilated pores, open microcysts also known as blackheads or even closed microcysts or whiteheads.

The concept of comedogenicity is measured on a scale from 0 to 5. A score of 0 indicates that no comedones have developed, meaning the pores are not clogged, while a score of 5 suggests a high probability that the cosmetic ingredient in question will cause comedones. The comedogenicity index of an ingredient is based, among other things, on its rate of penetration into the superficial layers of the skin and its vulnerability to oxidation. Any ingredient that scores 2 or less is considered non-comedogenic.

Here is a list of ingredients to avoid, incompatible with oily or acne-prone skin, which regularly have blackheads.

  • The animal waxes: Beeswax and Lanolin;

  • Some mineral oils and waxes derived from hydrocarbons: Paraffinum Liquidum, Cera Microcristallina, Synthetic Wax, Petrolatum, Mineral Oil, Ceresin Wax, etc... ;

  • Some vegetable oils and butters : Triticum Vulgare or Wheat Germ Oil, Argania Spinosa (Argan Oil), Persea Gratissima (Avocado Oil), Coco Nucifera or Coconut Butter, Cocoa Butter or Theobroma Cocoa (Cocoa Butter), Butyspermum Parkii or Shea Butter, Rosa Canina or Rosehip Oil, Castor Oil, etc;

  • Certain fatty esters : particularly the derivatives of stearic and oleic acids or isopropyl myristate, the unsaponifiables, squalanes and squalenes, etc...

  • The silicones : often found in conventional foundations due to the smooth texture with a non-greasy finish they provide, these polymers are generally very occlusive. Double-check the ingredients of your products and keep in mind that silicone can also be listed as dimethicone (or anything ending in 'cone') in the ingredient list. Be aware, certain silicones like cyclomethicone (a blend of silicones D4, D5, and D6 in varying proportions) are recognizedendocrine disruptors.

It should be noted: some ingredients such as alcohol are not comedogenic but are particularly drying for the skin. They are found in foundations because alcohol derivatives enhance the deposit of pigments on the skin. However, they should also be avoided if you have a lot of blackheads as they can trigger a reactive overproduction of sebum.


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